ernmost point of the Albis range, 5 miles south-west of Zurich, affords a fine point of view. It may be reached by railway to the top in half an hour. Fare: return ticket, 3 francs. The view embraces the Lake of Zurich, the Valley of the Limmat, the Alps from the Sentis to the Jungfrau, the Stockhorn, Rigi, and Pilatus. There is a large hotel near the top, and farther up at the top, an extensive restaurant (rebuilt after a fire in Nov. 1878).

Besides Lavater, Gesner and Pestalozzi were natives of Zurich. Popular resorts are the Tonhalle, on the Lake; concerts in summer. Zur Platte, winter garden, adjoining the Polytechnic (theatre summer and winter).

ROUTE 99.

ZURICH VIA COIRE, AND THE SPLUGEN PASS TO COMO, AND via BERNARDINO TO BELLINZONA.

To Coire, 80 miles. 1st class, 12.30 francs; 2d, 8.65 francs; 3d, 6.20 francs.

(Travellers who desire to see the fine scenery of the Lake of Zurich may go by boat to Rapperschwyl, at the upper end, and join the railway there. The railway does not approach the lake until Rapperschwyl is reached. Boats leave Zurich several times a day. Time occupied, 2 hours. The Lake is 25 miles long, and 2 miles broad at its widest part. Its scenery is not so grand as that of Lucerne, but is not excelled in beauty by that of any of the Swiss lakes.)

EAVING Zurich, by rail we proceed to Wadenswyl (15 miles), where a railway goes off to

the right to EINSIEDELN, celebrated for the number of pilgrims who resort to its Abbey (150,000 annually).

It is 21 miles from Wadenswyl to Einsiedeln.

RAPPERSCHWYL (19 miles) (Hotel: du Cygne). This is a picturesque town, on the borders of the lake, partially surrounded by the old walls, and containing the remains of a Castle (Der Grafenburg). In the neighbourhood, to the north-east, rises the Bachtel, a mountain 3675 ft. high. SCHMERIKON (27 miles), at the eastern end of the lake, near

which, on the right, is the ancient Castle of Grynau. The next station is UZNACH (28 miles), (Hotel Ochs). In the neighbourhood is a large cotton-mill, turned by a mountain stream. On the left, on the height, is the monastery of Sion. Passing Uznach, we see the snow-capped mountains at the upper end of the valley of Glarus, through which the Linth flows, and presently reach WESEN (39 miles) (Hotel Zum Speer), situated amid delightful scenery near the lake of WALLENSTADT. The Speer may be ascended from Wesen in about 2 hours. A beautiful view presents itself from the summit. The railway traverses the southern shore of the lake, passing through nine tunnels. The lake is twelve miles long, and three and a half broad. On the north side are steep cliffs, some of them 3000 ft. high, intersected by mountain torrents. The fall of Bayerbach is seen on the opposite side of the lake, soon after leaving Wesen. After two more tunnels we reach MURG (44 miles), on the lake at the mouth of the Murg valley. The best view of the lake is had from this spot (Hotel Schiffli). At the north-eastern end of the lake are the seven peaks of the Sieben Churfirsten, and below them the station of WALLENSTADT (51 miles), (Hotel: Aigle d'Or). In the neighbourhood are rich ironstone mines. Passing through the valley of the Seez, we enter that of the Rhine, and reach SARGANS (59 miles), where we join the line from St Gall. RAGATZ (64 miles) (Hotels: see "HoTEL LIST"), situated near the entrance of the valley, or ravine, through which the Tamina flows to the Rhine. This place is much frequented for its hot springs. They are used as baths for rheumatic and neuralgic pains, glandular swellings, and cutaneous

eruptions. The water is conveyed to the hotels from the source in the gorge behind the town, in wooden pipes.

One of the most remarkable spots in all Switzerland is the GORGE OF PFEFFERS. It is reached by a good carriage road, 2 miles from the hotels. The hot springs rise in this gorge, and through it runs the impetuous Tamina.

The chasm is everywhere extremely narrow in relation to its height; in some places it cannot be more than 12 or 14 ft. wide. and its average width can scarcely be more than 20 or 30 ft., while its height may be 300 or 400. The walls of the chasm are scarcely ever vertical in their whole depth, but inclined one over the other, at a considerable angle. In some places the one wall overhangs the other so much that the sky above it is entirely excluded, and this for a considerable space, by the natural configuration of the parts; in others, the size of the upper fissure has been originally so small, that it has been entirely closed up by the accidental fall of rocks and rubbish from the heights above. On these accounts the whole chasm is very dark, giving one much more the feeling of being in a cave or mine, than by the natural banks of a river. The shelving direction of the walls of the chasm is sometimes the same at its bottom as at its top, so that in looking down we can only see a bare rock, the stream being hid by the overlapping of one of its rocky sides. Altogether the place is very extraordinary, and forms perhaps the most remarkable sight of its kind in Switzerland. The source of the hot springs should be visited, at the end of the chasm.

From Ragatz we cross the Rhine by a covered wooden

bridge and reach MAYENFELD (68 miles), where we observe an ancient tower built by the Roman Emperor Constantius in the fourth century. There is a beautiful view up the valley of the Rhine. To the north-east rises the peak of the Falkniss (8,422 ft.) Crossing a torrent at LANDQUART (70 miles) we see the Convent of Pfeffers, situated at a short distance above the springs. LANDQUART is a convenient starting place for DAVOS, see Route 100 below.] On the right bank of the river the barren Grauhorner are seen in the distance. Passing. ZIZERS (76 miles), near which is Molinara, the country seat of the Bishops of Coire, we reach COIRE (81 miles) (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST.") This town, the capital of the Grisons, is situated in a fertile valley of the Ligne Caddee. It was called by the Romans Curia Rhaetorum. The chief buildings are the Dom, or Church of St Lucius, a fine Gothic structure, containing some curious old carvings and pictures, the Episcopal Palace and the Library. The church contains amongst its relics the bones of St Lucius, an ancient British king, the reputed founder of the church of St Peter in Cornhill.

Angelica Kauffman was a native of Coire.

Diligences three times every day to SPLUGEN, twice daily to Colico, on the Lake of Como, and daily over the Bernardino to Bellinzona. Fares, to Splugen, 11.95, coupe 14.60 francs; to Chiavenna, 22 frs. and 26.65 frs. Coire to Colico, 26 and 32 frs.-time, 16 hours. Carriage, two horses, Coire to Colico, 160 francs; three horses, 230 frs.

From Coire, a diligence also runs to Göschenen (see page 447) daily, in 144 hours. Fares, 25.25 frs, coupe 30.30 frs.

THE PASS OF THE SPLUGEN

was constructed by the Austrians in order to connect Lombardy with South Germany and Switzerland.

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The distance from Coire to Colico, where the steamer from Como meets the diligence, is about 73 miles. The Via Mala, about 11 miles from Coire, is very commonly visited even by those who do not wish to make the journey to Como or Milan. At a short distance from Coire we cross the celebrated covered wooden bridge spanning the Rhine by a single arch of 200 feet. We soon afterwards reach the village of REICHENAU (Hotel: Adler), celebrated as the residence of Louis Philippe. In the chateau near the hotel he sought refuge in 1794. From the chateau and the adjoining garden beautiful views may be enjoyed. We cross the two branches of the Rhine and ascend the Hinter Rhine along its left bank. merous remains of feudal castles are seen along the route. THUSIS (18 miles) (Hotel: Via Mala), about eleven miles beyond Reichenau, is situated at the mouth of a gorge on the Heinzenberg, from which there is a delightful and extensive prospect. Crossing the impetuous torrent of the Nolla we enter the VIA MALA, one of the most stupendous gorges in Switzerland. The mountain ridge across the valley is rent from top to bottom, affording an outlet to the Rhine. The road is cut from the side of the precipice for about a mile; it then enters a tunnel bored through a spur of the mountain, 200 ft. long, 18 ft. wide, and 14 ft. high. The road on the other side is again cut from the precipice, parts of which rise perpendicularly to a fearful height above it, in some places 1600 ft., while the river rushes in a foaming torrent through the ravine below, and is crossed three times by

bridges where the road would otherwise be impassable. We next reach ANDEER (27 miles) (Hotel: Kröne), where we see on the left the Castle of Barenburg, celebrated in the struggles between the peasants of the Grisons and the nobility. Just beyond it the Aversa falls into the Rhine. Crossing the last-named river we arrive at the village of SPLUGEN (32 miles). The road now divides; one goes westward by the Bernardino Pass (see below), the other goes southward, over the Splugen Pass, which is the route we follow. The Splugen Pass, rising more than 2,000 feet above the village and 6,814 above the sea, leads to Chiavenna and the Lake of Como; that of Bernardino, 7,115 feet above the sea and 2,400 above Splugen, leads to Bellinzona and the Lakes of Maggiore and Lugano.

Crossing the Rhine, we follow the Splugen road for nearly five miles up a steep ascent, and reach the ridge that marks the boundary between Switzerland and Italy. We pass through a tunnel, and then by a zig-zag route, arrive at the highest point, 6,940 feet above the sea. From this point the descent immediately commences, and we presently reach the Italian Custom House, where luggage is examined. The old road was open to the greatest danger from avalanches, which were frequently the cause of great destruction of life and property. It is said that the French Marshal Macdonald, who crossed the pass in 1800, lost 100 of his men, and as many horses, by this means. Below the Custom House our road passes through three great galleries in succession, the first being upwards of 700 feet long, the second, 640, the third, 1,530. Passing Pianazzo, we cross a small stream called the Madesimo, which a few yards below falls over the

precipice, in a cascade 800 feet high. We proceed, in a zig-zag course, through other galleries, and reach CHIAVENNA (73 miles) (Hotel: Conradi's). This town is pleasantly situated in the midst of vineyards. We have a fine view from the rock above the ancient Palazzo or castle. The Church of St Laurence has a tall campanile surrounded by cloisters, two bonehouses, arranged somewhat like the chambers in the catacombs of Paris, and a curious old font in the Baptistery. Proceeding on our route we reach RIVA (82 miles), situated near the Lago Mezzola, in a singularly wild and desolate region, surrounded by rugged mountains with torrents coursing down their sides. The road leads over several wooden bridges and through galleries cut out of the rocks. COLICO (91 miles) is on the Lake of Como. From this point steamers leave three times a day for COмO.

FROM SPLUGEN TO BELLINZONA BY BERNARDINO.

Diligence daily to Bellinzona; twice daily from Bernardino to Bellinzona. Fares-from Coire to Bernardino, 18.75 francs, coupe, 22.75 francs; to Bellinzona, 27.15 francs, and 33.50 francs. Distance, 78 miles. Extra post-Coire to Bellinzona, two horses, 180 francs; three horses, 230 francs.

Six miles from Splügen, we come to Hinterrhein (Hotel: Post) (5302 ft.), the highest village in the valley. Half a mile beyond, the road crosses the Rhine by a bridge of three arches, and ascends the slope in winding turns, giving magnificent views as we look back. The pass of St Bernardino is 6768 ft. above the sea level. On the left rise Mittaghorn (8560 ft.) and the Pizzo

Uccello (8911 ft.), and on the right is the Marscholhorn (9521 ft.) Descending by numerous windings, we reach Bernardino (17 miles) (Hotels: Brocco, Ravizza), which, owing to a mineral spring, is a summer resort for invalids. The village is quite Italian, and the inhabitants exclusively Roman Catholic. As we descend to Mesocco (25 miles) we see the evidences of the Italian climate in the walnuts, chesnuts, vines, and maize fields. On a rocky height, half a mile below the village, are the ruins of the castle of Mesocco, destroyed by the Grisons in 1526. At Roveredo (39 miles) is the ruined castle of the Trivulzo family. Passing Castione, the St Gothard road joins our road, and we cross the River Moësa, Below the confluence of the Moësa and Ticino is Arbedo. Here, on the 30th July 1422, a bloody battle took place between 3000 Swiss and 24,000 Milanese, in which 2000 Swiss were killed. They were buried beneath the red mounds of earth (called Chiesa Rossa) near the church of St Paul. Bellinzona (45 miles), see page 449.

ants), consisting of pastures and a few corn-fields, with scattered cottages and chalets. It is enclosed by wooded mountains, and the Landwasser river flows through its centre. There are five churches in the valley, around which are gathered the little hamlets of Dorfli, Am-Platz, Frauenkirch, Glaris, and Monstein.

DAVOS-PLATZ, the capital of the district, has become of late years a popular resort for consumptive patients. The distance from Landquart to Davos-Platz is 29 miles. Diligence twice daily in a little over seven hours. Fare, 10:55 francs, coupe, 13.45 francs. Leaving Landquart and crossing the high road to Coire, we enter (2 miles) the narrow gorge of Klus, which is mile long, and forms the entrance to the fertile valley of Prattigau, celebrated for its excellent pasturage and fine cattle. Passing Grusch and Schiers, with a seminary for teachers and a reformatory for children, we cross the river to the left bank, and follow the valley to Zenatz, and 1 mile beyond reach Fideriser-Au. From this point the road skirts the river; on the left, high above us, is the hamlet of Patz, with the ruin of the old residence of the Austrian governors, destroyed by the Swiss in 1622. On a wooded hill to the right is the ruined castle of Strahlegg. Passing Kubilis (Hotel Krone), we begin to ascend, and skirting the slope of the mountain, and crossing several valleys with waterfalls, reach the hamlet of Mezza-Selva. We soon after reach KLOSTERS, which consists of four hamlets: Uebern-Bach, Dörfli, Am-Platz, and Bei-derBrucke. The high road now quits the Landquart, and ascending the wooded hill called the Klostersche-Stutz, soon reaches