is brought through the cheeks of the mast with a knot inside. The neatest way for reeving the main brace is out through a single block on the brace-bumpkin, out through the brace-pennant-block, in through an outer block on the bumpkin, and seized to the strap of the pennant. Another way is out through the bumpkin block, out or down through the pennant block, and secure the end to the bumpkin or to the fashion-piece below.

The crossjack braces reeve up through blocks on the after shroud of the main rigging, up through blocks on the yard, one-third of the way in from the yard-arm, and are seized to a bolt in the mainmast, or to the after shroud again.

The foretopsail braces reeve up through the blocks secured to the bibbs at the mainmast-head, in through the span-block at the collar of the mainstay, up through the block on the yard, and are seized to the maintopmast-head; or else up through a block at the topmast-head, down through the brace-block on the yard, and are seized to the collar of the mainstay. The last way is the best. The maintopsail braces are rove through span-blocks at the mizzenmast, below the top, up through the blocks on the yard, and are seized to the mizzentopmast-head; or else up through a block at the mizzenmast-head, down through the block on the yard, and secured to the mizzenmast. The first way is the best. The mizzentopsail braces reeve up through the leading blocks or fair-leaders on the main rigging, up through blocks at the main mast-head, or at the after part of the top, up through the yard blocks, and are seized to the cap.

The fore and maintopgallant braces are rove up through blocks under the topmast cross-trees, in through span-blocks on the topmast stays, just below their collars, up through the blocks on the yards, and the main are usually seized to the head of the mizzen topgallant mast, and the fore to the topmast stay, by the span-block. The mizzentopgaliant braces generally go single, through a block at the after part of the maintopmast cross-trees. The royal braces go single the fore, through a block at the maintopgallant masthead; the main, through one at the mizzentopgallant mast-head; and the mizzen, through a block at the after part of the maintopmast cross-trees.

HALYARDS.-The lower yards are now hung by patent iron trusses, which allow the yard to be moved in any direction; topped up or braced. The topsail yards have chain tyes, which are hooked to the slings of the yard, and rove through the sheave-hole at the masthead. The other end of the tye hooks to a block. Through this block a chain runner leads, with its standing part hooked to an eyebolt in the trestle-tree, and with the upper halyard-block hooked to

its other end. The halyards should be a luff purchase, the fly-block being the double block, and the single block being hooked in the channels. Sometimes they are a gun-tackle purchase, with two large single blocks. The lower block of the mizzentopsail halyards

is usually in the mizzen-top, the fall coming down on deck.

The fore and mizzentopsail halyards come down to port, and the main to the starboard. The topgallant halyards come down on opposite sides from the topsail halyards; though the fore and main usually come down by the side of the masts. The fore and main topgallant halyards sometimes hoist with a gun-tackle purchase, but the mizzen and all the royal halyards are single.

The throat and peak halyards of the spanker are fitted in the following manner. The outer peak halyard block is put on the gaff, one-third of its length from the outer end, or a very little, if any, within the leach of the sail; and the inner one two-thirds in. The blocks are fitted round the gaff with grommet straps, and are kept in their places by cleats. The double block of the peak halyards is strapped to the bolt in the after part of the mizzen cap, and the halyards are rove up through this, in through the blocks on the gaff, the inner one first, the standing part made fast to the double block, and the fall coming on deck. The upper block of the throat halyards is secured under the cap, and the lower block is hooked to an eye-bolt on the jaws of the gaff. This is a twofold tackle.

THE SPANKER BRAILS.-The peak brails reeve through single blocks on the gaff, two on each side, generally span-blocks, and then through the throat brail blocks, as leaders, to the deck. The throat brails reeve through two triple blocks strapped to eye-bolts under the jaws of the gaff, one on each side, through the two other sheaves of which the peak brails lead. Each brail is a single rope, middled at the leach of the sail.

TACKS, SHEETS, CLEWLINES, &c.-It is much more convenient to have the tack and sheet blocks of the courses fastened to the clews of the courses by hooks. Then they can be unhooked when the sail is furled, and, in light weather, a single rope with a hook, called a lazy sheet, can be used, instead of the heavy tacks and sheets with their blocks. This is also much more convenient in clewing up. The main tack is rove aft through the block in the waterways, forward through the block on the sail, and the standing part hooks to the block on deck. The fore tack goes through a block on the bumpkin. The sheets of the courses have the after block hooked to an eye-bolt in the side, abaft the channels, and the forward one hooked to the clew of the sail, the running part reeving through a sheave-hole in the rail. The sheets of all the square sails but the courses run from the clew of the sail, through sheave-holes in the

yard-arms, through the quarter blocks, down on deck. The topsail sheets are chain, are clasped to the clews of the sail, and are fitted with a gun-tackle purchase at the foot of the mast. The topgallant and royal sheets are single. The topsail and topgallant clewlines reeve through the quarter-blocks. The royal clewlines are single, and the topsail and topgallant are a gun-tackle purchase.

The reef-tackles of the topsails reeve up through blocks on the lower rigging, or futtock shrouds, down through the block on the yard, down the leach of the sail and through the block on the leach, and are made fast to the yard on their own parts, with a clinch, outside of everything.

The clew garnets reeve out through blocks under the quarters of the yard, then up through blocks at the clew, and the standing part is made fast to the yard, to the block, or to a strap. The buntlines of the courses reeve through double or triple blocks under the forward part of the top, down forward of the sail, sometimes through thimbles in the first reef-band, and are clinched to the foot of the sail. The leachlines reeve through single blocks on the yard, and are clinched to the leach of the sail. The slabline is a small rope rove through a block under the slings of the yard, and clinched to the foot of the sail. This is not much used in merchant vessels. The topsail clewlines lead like the clew-garnets of the courses. The topsail buntlines reeve forward through single blocks at the topmasthead, down through the thimbles of a lizard seized to the tye, just above the yard, and are clinched to the foot of the sail.' The handiest way of reeving the main bowline is to have a single rope with the standing part hooked near the the foremast, and reeve it out through a heart in the bridle. This will answer for both sides. The forebowline may be rove through a single block at the heel of the jibboom and hooked to the bridle. The bowlines to the other sails are toggled to the bridles and lead forward. Many vessels now dispense with all the bowlines except to the courses. This saves trouble, makes a ship look neater, and, if the sails are well cut, they will set taught enough in the leach, without bowlines.

CHAPTER IV.

TO RIG MASTS AND YARDS.

Rigging the shears-Taking in lowermasts and bowsprit-To rig a bowsprit-Getting the tops over the mast-heads-To send up a topmast-To get on a topmast cap-To rig a jibboom-To cross a lower yard-To cross a topgallant yard-To send up a topgallant mast-Long, short, and stump topgallant masts-To rig out a flying jibboom-To cross topgallant and royal yards-Skysail yards.

TAKING IN LOWER MASTS AND BOWSPRIT.-Shore up the beams upon which the heels of the shears will rest, if necessary from the keelson. Parbuckle the shears aboard, with their heads aft. Raise their heads upon the taffrail, cross them, and pass the shear-lashing. Lash the upper block of a threefold tackle under the cross, and secure the lower block to the breast-hooks, or to a toggle in the hawse-hole. You may also reeve and secure, in the same manner, a smaller purchase, which shall work clear of the first. Have two forward and two after guys clove-hitched to the shear head, with cleats to prevent their slipping. Get a girt-line on one shear-head and a small tackle on the other, to slue and cant the mast. Let the fall of the main tackle come through the middle sheave, to prevent the block's sluing in its strap. Reeve large heel tackles to rouse the shears aft with. Put long oak plank shoes under the heels; and, if it be necessary, clap a thwart-ship tackle upon the two heels, or reeve a lashing, and put a stout plank between them, and bowse taut; which will prevent too great a strain coming upon the water-ways. Take the main tackle fall to the capstan; heave round, haul on the forward guy and after heel tackles, and raise the shear to an angle of about eighty degrees with the deck, and so that the main purchase will hang plumb with the partners of the mizzenmast. Lash a garland to the forward part of the mast, above the centre, and toggle the purchase to it. Heave the mast in over the bulwarks; fit the trestle-trees and after chock; reeve girt-lines by which men may be hoisted when the mast is in; point the mast in, and lower away. Always take in the mizzenmast first. Get in the main and then the foremast in the same manner, rousing the shears forward, with their shoes, by means of the heel tackles. Having stepped and secured the foremast, carry the forward guys aft and rake the shears over the bows; toggle the lower block of the main tackle to a garland lashed to the upper part of the bowsprit inside of the centre. Put on the cap, and carry tackles or guys from the bowsprit-head to each cat-head, and clap on a heel tackle or guy. Heave the bowsprit, and direct it by the small tackles and guys.

TO RIG A BOWSPRIT.-Lash collars for the fore stay, bobstays, and bowsprit shrouds, then for the spring stay, and put on the bees for the topmast stays; fit the man-ropes, pass the gammoning, and set up bobstays and shrouds.

TO GET THE TOPS OVER THE MAST-HEADS.-Place the top on deck abaft the mast; get a girt-line on each side of the mast-head, and pass the end of each under the top, through the holes in the after part; clinch them to their own parts, and stop them to the fore part of the top with slip-stops. Have a guy to the fore and another to the after part of the top. Make the ends of a span fast to the after corners of the top, and bend a girt-line from the mast-head to the bight of the span, and stop it to the forward part of the top. Sway away on the girt-lines. When the fore part of the top is above the trestle-trees, cut the span-stops, and when the after part is above them, cast off the slip-stops. When the lubber-hole is high enough to clear the mast-head, haul on the forward guy, and let the top hang horizontally by the girt-lines. Lower away, place and bolt it.

The fore and main tops are sent up from abaft, and the mizzen from forward. The tops may be got over without the span and girtline, by stopping the two girt-lines first rove to the middle as well as to the fore part of the top, and cutting the upper stops first.

TO SEND UP A TOPMAST.-Get the topmast alongside, with its head forward. Lash a top-block to the head of the lower-mast; reeve a mast-rope through it, from aft forward, and bring the end down and reeve it through the sheave-hole of the topmast, hitching it to its own part a little below the topmast-head, and stopping both parts to the mast, at intervals. Snatch the rope and sway away. As soon as the head is through the lower cap, cast off the end of the mast-rope, letting the mast hang by the stops, and hitch it to the staple in the other end of the cap. Cast off the stops and sway away. Point the head of the mast between the trestle-trees and through the hole in the lower cap, the round hole of which must be put over the square hole of the trestle-trees. Lash the cap to the mast, hoist away, and when high enough, lower a little and secure the cap to the lowermast-head. (This is when it cannot be put on by hand). If the cross-trees are heavy, they may be placed in the following manner. Sway away until the topmast-head is a few feet above the lower cap. Send up the cross-trees by girt-lines, and let the after part rest on the lower cap and the forward part against the topmast. Lower away the topmast until the cross-trees fall into their place, and then hoist until they rest on the shoulders. Lash on the bolsters, get girt-lines on the cross-trees to send up the rigging, and then put it over the mast head, first the shrouds, then