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small gardens, stand in rows along the road. Numerous children, often elaborately clad in only a bead necklace, play around the street and garden. Old men and women seek the shade and enjoy their smoke, while the younger ones are at work in the fields or in the sugar-house. Certain clans seem to band together, indicating their character by hanging out a flag, and to all appearances the people are happy. On gala-days, or when a visit is made to the town, all available ornaments are brought into requisition for personal adornment, and great is the pride of their

wearers.

Difficult of

Beyond the estates are found tracts of "bush." access on account of intervening swamps, these remnants of original forest present an almost impenetrable front. Densely intertwined plants, one clinging to the other in emulation of the traditional ivy and oak, ferm an effective barrier, and nothing but a long machete will be of any avail in tråversing

"Those matted woods, where birds begin to sing." Occasional swampy clearings harbor flocks of white herons and other birds.

Living along the Esequibo river and its tributaries, we encounter the native Indians (Plate 1). They are separated into tribes, bearing similar relations to each other as of our own Indians. Here they follow hunting and fishing, basket making, the production of pottery and netting of grass hammocks. For shelter they build rude huts, generally protected on one side by trees and other growing. plants, while three sides are open. Thatched palm leaves form the roof, which protects the inmates from heavy dews and periodical rains. Hammocks of twisted grass are swung between the poles which support the roof, and serve as resting places by day and night. (Plate 1). An Indian nature requires much rest. These hammocks have acquired a well merited reputation and are prized on account of their lightness and durability. Physically the Indians present a strong, healthy appearance. They are of medium height, well knit, muscular, and rarely show any superfluous tissue. Thick black hair covers their heads and protects them from the rays of a tropical sun. Sometimes this is worn long, falling over the shoulders. Square, massive features characterize the face, which would have a stupid expression were it not for the bright, black eyes. The men wear few or no ornaments, and usually no clothing except a loin-cloth. Generally the women

are well developed, muscular, and appear more agile than the men. Both are able to endure great bodily hardships. Necklaces made of beads, teeth, feathers, the lustrous wings of bugs and other materials of personal decoration in use among savages, are the never-failing adornments of these squaws, although all other wearing apparel may be dispensed with. Short aprons, worked in attractive patterns and trimmed with beads and feathers, are worn. Long tassels, interwoven with fur, feathers and grass are attached thereto. Anklets, either of metal or plaited grasses are almost invariably used, and appear to answer, in some way, the purpose of protecting and strengthening the lower portion of the leg (Plate 1). The female Indian is not beautiful, far from it, but in appearance she compares favorably with our North American squaw. As usual the women perform the greater portion of the manual labor, although the "lords of creation" will sometimes condescend to assist. Hunting, fishing, the search for valuable timber or medicinal plants, with an ample allowance of peaceful repose, fully occupy the man's time. Rum, obtained at a ridiculously low price, furnishes restful oblivion and freedom from care. This, together with tobacco, serves to smooth the native's path and gently hurry him along on his journey through mundane scenes.

Spears and arrows are used in fishing. Generally the spearheads are three-pronged and sharply barbed, but for smaller fish one prong suffices. Often these are made of a poisonous wood, which is said to paralyze the motions of the animal, so that it may easily be taken. Long arrows with iron points are shot into the fish, which then are speedily secured. Fishing, by hook and line, or net, provides a large portion of the Indians with bodily sustenance. Quadrupeds, birds and snakes are likewise hunted with spear and arrow. The former is a sort of javelin with poisoned tips. For long distances a bow is used measuring nearly seven feet in length, arrows in proportion. Beautiful workmanship and taste in decoration make these weapons very conspicuous. Birdarrows and those destined for larger game are prepared with special reference to the distances of their flight and the animals they are aimed at. For hunting in the bush a short bow, about three or four feet long, is employed. An ingenious contrivance saves the hunter from losing his arrows in case the game be only wounded; at the same time it enables him to do a great deal of execution with only a small supply of weapons. For this pur

pose the point end of the arrow is made blunt, and a narrow longitudinal slit cut into one side. The end is tightly wound with cord made of wood fiber. A number of points about the size of matches are cut from the siliceous rind of reeds and are prepared with ourare. Inserting one of these points into the slit, it is held there firmly enough to enter the body of an animal, while the arrow drops off and can be recovered.

Ourare is a very important factor in the hunting equipment of Guiana Indians. It is prepared by them from a variety of poisonous woods, barks and fruits, is placed in small calabashes and carefully wrapped in leaves. When required for use, cassava juice is employed to soften it. The deadly effect of this poison is too well known to require further mention. Inasmuch as it is used not only for purposes of the chase, but also in warfare, the Indians have recourse to what they claim as an effective antidote. In appearance this is a black powder, resembling charcoal. Any person desiring to make himself ourare proof, inoculates himself at several places of his body. By taking this precaution he is supposed to be insured against the deadly action of the poison. for a number of years. In case no previous inoculation has taken place, an immediate introduction of this substance into the blood is said to neutralize the effect of ourare.1

Apart from the more warlike propensities of the chase, the Guiana Indians are no strangers to the soothing influences; they have invented flutes to beguile the hours when not resting. Two kinds are especially noticeable, the one made of reeds, the other of suitable bones. Of the latter the leopard furnishes the most frequent specimens. Whether it is merely a matter of preference or whether the possession of such a flute recalls reminiscences of successful encounters, cannot be told. Limited as to scope and volume, yet the sounds produced by these instruments, ornamented as they are with bright feathers and tassels, show that

"*** music for the time doth change his nature."

In their domestic relations the Demerara Indians resemble their North American brethren. Contact with the whites has had the same influence upon them. Living in a zone where clothing can be dispensed with, where the sustenance of life is rendered easy by

1 I have been assured by a gentleman that this was a fact, he having seen the experiment of ourare poisoning and the administering of the antidote, successfully performed upon dogs,

the bountiful provision of nature, they have but few wants. Rum, beads, and trinkets comprise their ambition. In exchange for these they furnish rude pottery, handsomely wrought baskets and the hammocks above mentioned. Farther towards the interior these people have hardly been disturbed as yet, and live on without being affected by extraneous influences. Their haunts are difficult of access, and it is but rarely that any venturesome traveler penetrates to their homes.

Traveling by water is perhaps the most available method, but even then many obstacles confront the explorer. It is owing to these facts that comparatively little is known of the Guiana Indians, and it may be a long time before complete information can be obtained regarding their distribution, manners and customs. A praiseworthy spirit has been shown at Georgetown, by the establishment of a Colonial Museum, where archæological specimens and products of the present day are carefully preserved. The great interest taken at this time in matters pertaining to ethnology and anthropology has pervaded all countries and all classes, so that we may hope ere long to see the correlations of races and tribes, now obscure, more fully established.

The tropical flora and tropical fauna are too well known to require any special mention. The rich, strong colors, the evidence of exuberant life and the unaccustomed forms exhibited by the vegetation must make a profound impression upon the stranger from northern climes. Where every step, every turn reveals so much that elicits sympathetic response, it is natural that the admiration of nature's most lovely products should become an integral part of the appreciative mind.

Demerara has made great strides in development during the past few decades. Sanitary measures, well adapted regulations as to non-European inhabitants, and good government have brought the colony to a condition of flourishing welfare. The comforts of home-life have been combined with the advantages of tropical residence, and few places, indeed, may be visited, which will so amply repay the trouble. Staples for which there is constant demand are the basis of colonial wealth, and the enterprise heretofore shown by planters and manufacturers, gives assurance that in its own productions Demerara will never be found lagging behind its competitors.

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