Gambar halaman
PDF
ePub

SEWING MACHINES

to be sewed, carrying it along intermittently at
a proper time to meet the action of the needle.
Elias Howe, Jr., began his experiments in
1843, and secured his first patents 10 Sept. 1846.
Howe's principal improvements were the shut-
tle, producing the lock-stitch, and the feed mo-
tion. Later, Howe made other improvements,
was not
but the machine bearing his name
Howe's invention con-
patented until 1857.
sisted of the combination of the eye-pointed
needle with a shuttle for forming a stitch, and
an intermittent feed for holding and carrying
the material forward as each stitch is formed.
The mechanical device for the feed was called
the "baster-plate," and the length of the seam
sewed at one operation was determined by the
length of this plate. The material to be sewed
was hung by pins to the "baster-plate" in an
upright position, and if the seam to be sewed
was of greater length than the plate it was
necessary to rehang it on the plate, which was
moved back to position in the same manner as
a log is carried back and forth in a saw-mill.

In 1847, Allen B. Wilson, then working as a
journeyman cabinet-maker in Adrian, Mich.,
conceived the idea of a sewing machine, al-
He did not
though he had never heard of one.
complete full drawings of his machine until the
latter part of 1848. Early in 1849, he deter-
mined to build a model, and began, on 3 Feb.
1849, the construction of his first machine.
which he completed in about 60 days. Having
been compelled, by lack of means, to construct
every part of the machine himself, the iron
and steel as well as the wood, although he was
not a practical machinist and lacked suitable
tools for the metal work, the machine was
consequently of imperfect construction, and
could not illustrate in the best manner the
principles of his invention. It worked, how-
ever, and with it were made dress waists and
other articles that severely tested its capacity.
This machine made the lock-stitch, the lower
thread being carried by a double-ended shuttle.
The machine contained the first automatic feed
movement ever produced, and was the first that
could sew curved seams or turn a sharp angle.
Without such a device, the machine would have
been a practical failure, as Howe's really was,
and as were all others until Mr. Wilson's in-
ventions. His first device was what is known
as the "two-motion feed," to distinguish it from
his "four-motion feed," a still more effective
device afterward invented by him. The "two-
motion feed" consisted of a horizontally recip-
rocating tooth surface (the pitch of the teeth
being forward) engaging the material at all
times, and while the needle was in the material
moving back to take a new stroke. A patent
on this machine was granted Mr. Wilson on
12 Nov. 1850. Wilson had, while in New York,
constructed a model of a machine containing a
rotary hook and reciprocating bobbin, gave all
his energies to perfecting the new machine, and
obtained a patent for it 12 Aug. 1851.

It is a remarkable coincidence that on the same day a patent was granted to Isaac M. Singer for his first machine. The main features of the Singer machine were its straight needle, working at the extremity of a stationary overhanging arm, and its feed, consisting of a roughened wheel. A straight shaft in the overhanging arm imparted the motion to the

was

needle, and the shuttle was driven in its race
below the feed table by a mechanism deriving
its motion from the shaft by means of gearing.
The feed consisted of an iron wheel with a
corrugated surface, the top of which
By an intermittent motion the feed
slightly elevated above the level surface of the
table.
carried the cloth forward between stitches with-
out injury to the fabric. This device permitted
the cloth to be turned in any direction by the
operator while sewing, which was impossible
with the styles of feed which perforated the
goods. The material was held in place by a
presser foot alongside the needle. This presser
foot embraced an important feature possessed
by no other sewing machine up to that time-
the yielding spring, which would permit of
passage over seams, and adjust itself automati-
cally to any thickness of cloth. It was claimed
that this was an improvement over Mr. Wil-
son's first feed, in that there was no backward
motion while in contact with the cloth. It had,
however, the disadvantage of touching the cloth
a small portion of its periphery ·
only on
It was claimed by Messrs.
theoretically at only a point, and practically
only a little more.
Wheeler & Wilson to be really an infringement
of Wilson's patent, the principle of which was
or toothed surface on the under side and a
the holding of the cloth between a roughened
smooth surface touching it with an intermittent
motion, permitting the turning of the cloth in
either direction while the machine was in mo-
tion; and this claim was sustained by the

court.

On 19 Dec. 1854, a patent was issued for Mr. Wilson's celebrated "four-motion feed," so called from the peculiarity of the device by which the flat-toothed surface of the feed, being in contact with the cloth, is moved forward, carrying the cloth with it; then drops out of contact with the cloth, is moved backward and then rises up against the cloth and is again ready for the first motion. This device solved the problem of a thoroughly practical and effective feed, and was soon generally adopted and has become the feed motion of the world. This feed motion, although it was not patented until this late date, had been long previously invented by Mr. Wilson, and was described in his application for a patent in 1851, but the claim was not pursued for the reason that he believed at the time that he had been anticiIt was ascertained afterward, howpated by W. O. Grover, of the firm of Grover & Baker. ever, that Mr. Wilson was really prior in the invention, and, without contest on the part of Mr. Grover, the patent was granted to Mr. Wilson. This machine was invented by Grover & Baker on 11 Feb. 1851, and had a double-loop stitch made by a combination of a circular reciprocating under needle and a curved upper needle with an eye near the point. This eliminated both shuttle and bobbin and rendered it possible for the upper and under threads to be taken from commercial spools. These machines, though once popular, are not now manufactured.

In 1855 litigation arose involving the three principal sewing-machine companies then in existence, each claiming that the others were infringing upon certain of their patent rights, and numerous suits were instituted, more par

SEXAGESIMA SUNDAY-SEXTANT

ticularly by Howe, whose patents were so skillfully drawn that he claimed all others were infringements.

In 1856 the three principal sewing-machine companies - Wheeler & Wilson, Singer and the Grover & Baker - formed a combination. It was contracted by the three companies and Mr. Howe that they would stop their litigation, and, with a fair payment to each other and to Mr. Howe for special rights, would carry on the business with only honorable competition. They finally agreed to license any responsible person who should propose to engage in the manufacture of a good machine on the payment of a royalty, which for several years was $3 on a machine.

The next machine to be put on the market was the Willcox & Gibbs. This machine, which had a rotating hook for using a single thread to make the twisted loop-stitch, was first patented in June 1857, by James E. H. Gibbs, of Millpoint, Va. Later James Willcox, of Philadelphia, added some further improvements, and the machine then became known as the Willcox & Gibbs. Several years afterward an automatic tension was placed on this machine by Charles H. Willcox.

While the manufacture of machines for the home has been developing and progressing, those for manufacturing purposes have in no less a degree been brought to a state bordering on perfection. There are now machines for making - or which have special attachments for making - every conceivable article of clothing, upholstery, embroidery, leather goods, etc. We have the button-hole, the button-sewer, the French-knot, the faggoting, feather-stitching, hemstitch, side and box-plaiters, corset ma chines; the cylinder for seam work on sleeves, trousers, bootlegs, leather buckets, etc.; chines for embroidery, smocking, carpet, awnings, etc.; the single and double-needle machines and those with four, six, and eight needles for glove work, special machines for overalls, sail-making, flag-making, and a host of others too numerous to mention. Many of the machines may be used for several different purposes by simply changing the style of feed motion, presser foot, needle, etc., while the other parts of the mechanism remain substantially the same. There have been several thousand patents granted on sewing machine appli

ances.

ma

The production of sewing machines has become a wonderful industry in the United States, which leads the world in their manufacture. In 1900 there were 58 concerns engaged in the industry, capitalized at $18.739.459; employing 624 salaried clerks and officials, with salaries aggregating $842,468, and 10.635 wage-earners, with wages of $6,213,938; their miscellaneous expenses were $864,451; cost of material used, $7.809.796; and the value of their production was $18,314,419. Besides these there were 7 establishments making sewing-machine cases, producing goods annually to the value of $2,815,142. The product in 1900 included 747,587 machines for domestic use and 55,227 machines for manufacturing purposes. In the same year the exports amounted to $4,541,774.

Sexagesima (seks-a-jes'ĭ-ma) Sunday, the second Sunday before Lent. See QUINQUA

GESIMA.

[blocks in formation]

which the polished side is turned downward and toward the left. H is a flat plate of polished glass through which an eye placed at E may view a distant object in the direction K by light coming through it in the direction of the

dotted lines.

Light emanating from another object O or P and falling on the mirror C will, where the mirror is properly directed, be reflected along the line CH and, in striking the glass plate H, a certain portion of it will be reflected in the direction HE, so that the observer with his eye at E will see both the objects K and O or P in coincidence. If the mirror C is set parallel to H as in the figure, the rays KE and OC will be parallel, and may therefore be considered as emanating from the same object at an infinite distance.

Thus the eye will see two images in the mirror as if together. But if the mirror C be moved into a different direction, that shown by the dotted line AB for example, the direction of the ray, the direction of the line PC, the rays along which are reflected to H, will deviate from OC by double the angle through which the mirror has turned. This doubling is caused by the fact that the angles of incidence and reflection are both changed by the motion of C. It follows that if the observer can measure the angle between the mirror C and H, doubling this angle will give him the difference of direction between the rays coming from K and from P.

The sextant is used to measure this angle. The essential parts of it are shown in Fig. 2. The part ABC consists of the arc AB round C as a centre and firmly fastened by the radii CB and CA which are again firmly connected by a framework not shown in the figure. To this framework is attached the fixed plate of glass H, of which the lower half is silver while the upper half is transparent. T is a telescope, also firmly fixed to the frame, through which the eye looking in at E may see a distant object through the transparent portion of the mirror, and at the same time see any other object by the light reflected from the silvered part.

[ocr errors][merged small]

SEXTET - SEXUAL SELECTION

[blocks in formation]

this arc is only 60 degrees in length, but is divided into 120 degrees, so as to show the actual altitude of the object observed.

RM is a movable arm carrying a mirror C called the index glass, fixed to it perpendicularly at its upper end. The arm revolves around C as a centre. At its lower end there is an index mark and vernier by which the position of the arm with respect to the graduations on the arc may be determined.

Sexton, a church officer whose duties consist in taking care of the church generally, to which used to be added the duty of digging and filling up graves in the churchyard, when the church had a cemetery attached to it. In the United States the sexton is also very often an undertaker, and thus continues in a form different from the old-time sexton, to attend to the interment of church members.

Sex'tus (surnamed EMPIRICUS, from his belonging to the empiric school of medicine) was a skeptic who flourished in the first half of the 3d century. He was a Greek by birth, and lived at Alexandria and Rome. Skepticism appears in his writings in the most perfect state which it reached in ancient times. (See SCEPTICISM.) We have two works by him, written in the Greek language, and they are the source of our knowledge of the Greek skeptical philosophy. One of them entitled 'Outlines of Pyrrhonism, in three books, explains the method of Pyrrho; the other, entitled 'Against the Mathematicians,' is an attempt to apply that method to all the prevailing philosophical systems and other branches of knowledge.

The altitude of a heavenly body at C is then measured by the observer taking the instrument in his hand and holding it in a vertical position, with the telescope ET horizontal, so that the sea horizon may be seen through the transparent part of the horizon glass H. The observer facing in the vertical plane of the sun or other object then turns the arm RM around the centre C until he brings the sun into sight, through its rays being reflected first from C and then from H. When the limb of the sun is thus made to coincide with the horizon, the angle through which the arm RM has moved from parallelism is shown by the position of the index on the graduated arc BA, which is then determined by the vernier.

Sexual Selection, a term invented by Darwin to denote a special phase of natural selection, depending on a competition between rival males, in which a premium is set on those qualities which favor their possessors in securing mates. This competition takes two forms: On the one hand, rival mates, for instance stags or gamecocks, fight with one another, and the conquerors have naturally the preference in mating; on the other hand, rival males sometimes seem to vie with one another in displaying their attractive qualities before their desired mates, who, according to Darwin, choose those that please them best. Darwin gives the following summary of his theory:

In ordinary use the navigator never has to measure angles exceeding 90 degrees. In this case the arc BA need only to be 45 degrees in actual length. The instrument is then called a quadrant. This was the original form used by Hadley.

For very accurate use the arc is extended down so as to form a complete circle. A special device is employed to bring about the proper reflection of the light; but the reflecting circle, as the instrument is called, is too complicated to admit of common use by the

navigator.

S. NEWCOMB.

Sextet (from Lat. sextus, sixth). In music, a composition for six voices or instruments, or for voices with instrumental accompaniment. Instrumental sextets are generally compositions in sonata form.

It has been shown that the largest number of vigorous offspring will be reared from the pairing of the strongest and best-formed males, victorious in contests over other males, with the most vigorous and best-nourished females, which are the first to breed in the spring. If such females select the more attractive and, at the same time, vigorous males, they will rear a larger number of offspring than the retarded females, which must So

pair with the less vigorous and less attractive males. it will be if the more vigorous males select the more attractive and, at the same time, healthy and vigorous females; and this will especially hold good if the male defends the female, and aids in providing food for the young. The advantage thus gained by the more vigorour pairs in rearing a larger number of offspring has apparently sufficed to render sexual selection efficient.

In regard to the second aspect of sexual selection, in which the females are believed to exercise some choice, giving the preference to those suitors which have brighter colors, more graceful forms, sweeter voices, or greater charms of some kind, there is no little difference of opinion. Darwin indeed believed strongly in the female's choice, and referred to this process of selection many of the qualities which distinguish male animals. The females "have by a long selection of the more attractive males added to their beauty or other attractive qualities." On the other hand, Alfred Russel Wallace maintains a very different position. "There is." he says, "a total absence of any evidence that the females admire or even notice the display of the males. Among butterflies there is

SEYCHELLES-SEYCHELLES COCOANUT

If we

literally not one particle of evidence that the female is influenced by color or even that she has any power of choice, while there is much direct evidence to the contrary." Against this, G. W. and E. G. Peckham, in their careful essay on sexual selection in spiders, state that they have in the Attida "conclusive evidence that the females pay close attention to the love dances of the males, and also that they have not only the power, but the will, to exercise a choice among the suitors for their favor." Some observers of birds are also confident that the females choose the more musical or otherwise attractive males. But again Wallace maintains that the fact that every male bird finds a mate "would almost or quite neutralize any effect of sexual selection of color or ornament; since the less highly colored birds would be at no disadvantage as regards leaving healthy offspring." The theory of sexual selection is of considerable importance in a general theory of evolution. This may be illustrated in reference to the bright plumage of many birds. postulate successive crops of variations (which cannot at present be completely rationalized), if we acknowledge that there is really "preferential mating" among birds (which is not readily proved or disproved), if we believe that the females are sensitive to the slight excellences which distinguish one suitor from another and that their choice of mates is determined by these excellences (which Wallace emphatically denies), then we may say that the greater brightness of male birds may have been evolved by sexual selection. This was Darwin's opinion. The brighter males succeeded better than their rivals in the art of courtship; the variations which gave them success were transmitted to the offspring; gradually the qualities were established and enhanced as secondary sexual characters of the species. But Wallace interpreted the facts quite otherwise. The relatively plain plumage of the female birds was due to natural selection, eliminating those whose conspicuousness during incubation was fatal, fostering those whose coloring was protective. Just as Daines Barrington, a naturalist, still remembered as the correspondent of Gilbert White, suggested (1773) that singing birds were small and hen birds mute for safety's sake, so Wallace maintained that female birds had forfeited brightness

as a ransom for life.

The doubts and difficulties arouse skepticism as to the thoroughness of the explanations of secondary sexual characters suggested either by Darwin or by Wallace. It is not surprising, therefore, to find Mivart's explanation of the beauty of males as the direct expression of an internal force, or Mantegazza's hints as to physiological explanation of the sexual divergence, or Brook's reference to "something within the animal which determines that the male should lead and the female follow in the evolution of new breeds. Geddes advanced further, endeavoring to interpret the secondary sexual characters as outcrops of the relative preponderance of anabolism and katabolism characteristic of females and males respectively. Gay coloring-sometimes at least due to pigmented waste products is regarded as a characteristic expression of the predominantly katabolic or male sex, and quiet plainness is equally natural to the more anabolic females. But this theory, which seeks

to rationalize the variations which Darwin simply postulated, is by no means inconsistent with a recognition of sexual selection as an accelerant directive process in the evolution of male brightness, or of natural selection as a retardative directive process eliminating disadvantageously conspicuous females.

Wallace in his later works advanced toward a rational interpretation of the variations which he was previously content to postulate as facts. For he says that "ornament is the natural outcome and direct product of superabundant health and vigor," and is "due to the general laws of growth and development." It seems to some that this mode of interpreting characters is of far-reaching importance, and that it affects not only the theory of sexual selection but that of natural selection as well.

To sum up, the problems involved in sexual selection are (1) what physiological conditions explain the secondary sexual characters which so often distinguish males and females; (2) to what extent and in what degree of refinement does preferential mating occur; and (3) to what extent has sexual selection guided the differentiation of the sexes alike in distinctive qualities and in æsthetic sensitiveness? Before these problems can be adequately solved many more facts must be accumulated.

[ocr errors]

Consult: Darwin, Origin of Species, Descent of Man'; Wallace, Natural Selection,? Darwinism'; L. Morgan, 'Habit and Instinct,' and other books.

Seychelles, sã-shěl', a group of islands in the Indian Ocean, belonging to England. Their formation is peculiar, as they are the only tropical islands of granite structure. The archipelago comprises 80 islands, rising precipitously from the water to a height of 2,998 feet in the largest of the group, Mahé, which has an area of 552 square miles. Mahé is central and, with a few of the others, is inhabited. The white sandy beaches are enclosed by coral reefs. The soil is fertile, the climate temperate. There are many brooks and streams. The islands are covered with verdure (enormous ferns, sensitive plants, and palms grow) and valuable woods, adapted to cabinet work or ship-building. Vanilla, coffee, cocoa, spices, tobacco, corn, tropical fruits, and vegetables are grown. The exports are the fibres, nuts, and oil of the cocoanut palm; vanilla, soap, tobacco, tortoise-shell, and vacoa bags. The imports are cotton, coal, wine, Coco-de-mer (q.v.) coffee, and cotton goods. Enormous tortoises of is peculiar to Praslin. the edible sort are common. The adjacent seas contain numerous fish, some of gorgeous colors. The inhabitants contruct their homes of a species of coral which glistens like marble and is hewn into massive blocks. The chief harbor is Port There is much land Victoria, on Mahé Island. suitable to, but not as yet under, cultivation. The Seychelles were discovered by the Portuguese, and first colonized by the French (1743), of whom the present inhabitants are descendants. The British captured the islands in 1794, and at the Peace of 1814 they were ceded to them. Pop. about 22,000.

Seychelles Cocoanut, a palm (Lodoicea sechellarum), peculiar to the Seychelles Islands, sometimes 100 feet high, crowned by immense palmate leaves, which make good material for

SEYMOUR

hat plaiting and basketry, and when mature are used for house partitions and for thatching. The fruits are gigantic in size, sometimes weighing as much as 50 pounds, and were anciently supposed to grow on sub-marine palms, since they were found only when washed ashore on Asiatic coasts. This circumstance caused many superstitions to arise, especially that they were a powerful cure for snake poison, and they therefore commanded high prices in the East, and were called coco-de-mer, sea, double, or Maldive cocoanuts. There are from one to four stony nuts in a husk, each being deeply lobed at each end. This floating apparently double nut may have given rise to the types of twin boats. The unripe fruit is edible and the hard black shell of the nuts is carved into ornaments and fakers' drinking cups. See PALMS.

Seymour, se'mōr, a noble English family of Norman origin. Their name is corrupted from Saint Maur, their seat in Normandy. They acquired lands in Monmouthshire in the beginning of the 13th century, and early in the 15th century added to these estates others in Somersetshire. The first member to become conspicuous was Sir John Seymour, the father of the third wife of Henry VIII. and of Edward Seymour, protector of the realm of England during the minority of Elward VI., whose uncle he was. He commanded in a maritime expedition against the Scots in 1544, when he landed a body of troops at Leith, and set fire to the city of Edinburgh, By the will of Henry he was nominated one of the council of regency during the minority of Edward VI.; but, not content with his share of power, he procured himself to be appointed governor of the king and protector of the kingdom (January 1547). In the month following he obtained the post of lord-treasurer, was created first Duke of Somerset, and made earl-marshal. The same year he headed an army, with which he invaded Scotland, and after having gained the victory of Musselburgh returned in triumph to England. His success excited the jealousy of the Earl of Warwick and others, who procured his confinement in the Tower. Six months after he obtained a full pardon from the king, and was ostensibly reconciled to his adversary, Lord Warwick. The reconciliation was probably insincere, as Warwick caused Somerset to be again arrested, in October 1551, on the charge of treasonable designs. He was tried, found guilty, attainted, and beheaded on Tower Hill in January 1552. His eldest son by his second wife was created by Elizabeth Earl of Hertford. The Earl of Hertford under Charles II. having distinguished himself in support of the royal cause during the parliamentary war, obtained in his favor the revival of the title of Duke of Somerset, and took his seat in the House of Lords as second duke in 1660. On the extinction of his line the descendants of the first Duke of Somerset by his first wife claimed the title, and on the advice of the attorney-general that claim was pronounced good by the House of Lords, in which body the descendants of that claimant still hold a place.

Seymour, George Franklin, American Protestant Episcopal bishop: b. New York 5 Jan. 1829; d. Springfield, Ill., 8 Dec. 1906. He was graduated from Columbia in 1850, from the Gen

eral Theological Seminary in 1854, and ordained in the priesthood in 1855. He held various charges in New York State, founded Saint Stephen's College at Annandale, N. Y., in 1855, and was its warden until 1861. In 1865-79 he was professor of ecclesiastical history at the General Theological Seminary, of which he was also dean in 1875-9, and in 1878 he was consecrated first bishop of Springfield. He published: What is Modern Romanism) (1885); 'Marriage and Divorce (1893); The Church Idea of the Family (1899); Sacraments and Principles of the Church (1 vol. 1903); etc.

Pompey Hill, Onondaga County, N. Y., 31 May Seymour, Horatio, American statesman: b. 1810; d. Utica, N. Y., 12 Feb. 1886. He was educated at Geneva Academy (now Hobart College) and at a military school at Middletown, Conn.; studied law at Utica and was admitted to the bar in 1832. In 1833 he became military secretary to Governor Marcy and held the position six years. He was elected to the State assembly by the Democrats of Oneida County in 1841; was mayor of Utica in 1842; re-entered the assembly in 1843 where, as chairman of the committee on canals, he outlined the policy subsequently followed by the State. He was chosen speaker in 1845, and nominated for governor in 1850, was defeated by Washington Hunt,_but in 1852 was elected by a large majority. During his term a prohibition law was passed by the legislature and was vetoed by him as unconstitutional. The strong temperance sentiment prevalent at the time made his act very unpopular. During the term of his successor the vetoed law was again passed by the legislature, but was declared unconstitutional by the Court of Appeals. He was again elected governor in 1862 and made an unequivocal declaration in favor of the supremacy of the Constitution and the restoration of the Union, though he denied that the War was the unavoidable result of slavery, or that slavery should be abolished in order to restore the Union. In July 1863 serious riots broke out in New York, involving loss of life and destruction of property. These were caused by the draft-law which discriminated against New York city, in the allotment of quotas. The Governor's complaint to the President secured an investigation which resulted in procuring a correction of the errors of the enrolment. In 1868 he was nominated for the Presidency, but was defeated by Ulysses S. Grant. Consult: Croly, Seymour and Blair: their Lives and Services' (1868); Hartley, 'Horatio Seymour) (1886).

Seymour, Lady Jane, queen of England: b. England about 1509; d. Hampton 24 Oct. 1537. She was the third wife of Henry VIII. (q.v.) and the mother of Edward VI. (q.v.). She was the first maid of honor to Anne Boleyn, whom she supplanted in 1536, and favored the Protestant Reformation.

Seymour, Thomas Hart, American legislator and diplomat: b. Hartford, Conn., 1808; military academy at Middletown, Conn., became d. there Sept. 1868. He was educated at a a lawyer at Hartford, and was editor of "The Jeffersonian Democrat' in 1837. He was a member of Congress in 1843-5, served through the Mexican War, rising to the rank of colonel, and in 1850-3 was governor of Connecticut. He

« SebelumnyaLanjutkan »