still farther, Cambusmore, where Sir Walter Scott, in his youth, was a frequent guest. We now cross the Keltie, and, passing

on

the left the remains of a Roman camp, reach Callendur (52 miles), (Hotels: Dreadnought, McGregor's), situated on the banks of the Teith. Here the route by railway ends. The country around Callander is highly attractive. A short distance below it is the Camp, a villa surrounded by grounds beautifully laid out. It derives its name from the remains of entrenchments, believed to be Roman, in its vicinity. To the north, above the village, is Callander Craig, precipitous and partially covered with wood. Towards the north-west we see the junction of the rivers Vennachar and Lubnaig, the woods of Gartchonzie, and the beautiful Pass of Leny,-Benledi towers before us to the height of 3009 feet. On its summit, it is said, heathen rites were in ancient times celebrated in honour of the sun.

From Callander we proceed to Loch Katrine, by coach, through scenes described in Scott's poem, "The Lady of the Lake." Leaving the valley of Bocastle, with the house and grounds of Leny, we advance towards the waterfalls of Gartchonzie, where the Vennachar, issuing from the lake of its name, dashes over a succession of rocks and rushes down to Coilantogle Ford. It was to this spot the poet represents Rhoderick Dhu to have pledged his faith to convey Fitz James

We now come in sight of Loch Vennachar (5 miles); it is 5 miles in length by 1 miles in breadth, and on it we observe a small island covered with wood. The lake lies on our left, and Benledi rises aloft on our right.

(In a note to the "Lady of the Lake," Sir Walter Scott says, "I took uncommon pains to verify the accuracy of the local circumstances of this story. I recollect, in particular, that to ascertain whether I was telling a probable tale, I went into Perthshire to see whether Fitz James could actually have ridden from the banks of Loch Vennachar to Stirling castle within the time supposed in the poem, and had the pleasure to satisfy myself that it was quite practicable.")

The tourist next passes through Gartchonzie Wood, "the wood of lamentations," so called from a legend to the effect that a demon, or water kelpie," appeared there to a number of children, and dragged them with it underneath the waters. Near the west end of the lake, where

"Stern and steep The hill sinks down upon the deep; Here Vennachar in silver flows,"

on the left, on a level headland, is the spot where the forces of Clan Alpine assembled, and a little below, the place where the clan lay in ambuscade till roused by Rhoderick Dhu's whistle.

"Instant, through copse and heath,

arose

Bonnets and spears and bended bows;
On right, on left, above, below,
Sprung up at once the lurking foe:
From shingles grey their lances start,
The bracken bush sends forth the dart,
The rushes and the willow wand
Are bristling into axe and brand,
And every tuft of broom gives life
To plaided warrior armed for strife."

About a mile beyond Loch Vennachar we see the river Achray flowing out of its parent loch, and the loch itself lying between wooded mountains. Shortly afterwards

"Duneraggan's huts appear at last And peep, like moss-grown rocks, half

seen,

Half-hidden in the copse so green."

Leaving on the right an ancient burial-ground, the tourist then reaches the Bridge of Turk (64 miles), leaving which we proceed along the north shore of Loch Achray. To the left we see Benvenue, and, on the right, Ben A'an, and between them stretches the Pass of the Trossachs, "Bristled Territory." We soon reach the Trossachs Hotel (8 miles), from which the route is through a wild glen, abounding with crags and ravines, some rugged and bare, others covered with brushwood and trees of various kinds, altogether presenting a scene of most picturesque confusion.

"But not a setting beam could glow
Within the dark ravine below,
Where twined the path, in shadow hid,
Reund many a rocky pyramid,
Shooting abruptly from the dell."

As we near LOCH KATRINE we pass, in a ravine, the spot where Fitz James' "gallant grey " fell exhausted. On the left is a range of rocks giving a wonderfully distinct echo. This ravine is called Bealan Duine, and here a fight took place between the natives and a detachment of Cromwell's army. We next arrive at Loch Katrine Pier, where a steamer awaits the arrival of the coach. Embarking, we pass Ellen's Isle, the scene of the interview between Fitz James and the heroine of the poem. From this point there is a famous echo, and here we have the best view of Benvenue.

The scene before us is thus described in "The Lady of the Lake."

"Where gleaming 'neath the setting

sun.

One burnish'd sheet of living gold,
Loch Katrine lay beneath him roll'd;
In all her length far winding lay
In promontory, creek and buy,
And islands that empurpled bright
Floated among the livelier light,
And mountains that like giants stand
To sentinel enchanted land.
High on the south huge Benvenue
Down to the lake in masses threw
Crags, knolls, and mounds, confus'dly
hurl'd,

The fragments of an earlier world;
A wildering forest feather'd o'er
His ruin'd sides and summit hoar,
While on the north through middle air
Ben-An heaved high his forehead

bare."

Opposite Ellen's Isle, at the base of Benvenue, is the entrance of the narrow gorge leading to Coirnan-Uriskan, or The Goblin's Cave. This is a vast hollow in the mountain side, shut in by huge masses of fallen rocks and the trees and brushwood that have grown up amongst them. Here it was that Ellen raised her "angel hymn," while concealed by her father,

after he had borne her off from Rhoderick Dhu. The scenery around is considered even more charming than that of the Trossachs, though entirely differing from it in its general features.

"No murmur waked the solemn still, Save tinkling of the fountain rill; But when the wind chafed with the

lake,

A sullen sound would upward break."

Above the Goblin's Cave is Bealach-nam-Bo, or The Pass of Cattle, which may be reached through a chasm in the cave. This pass is shut in by huge crags, covered with aged birch-trees and copsewood of various kinds. Through it the cattle stolen by moss-troopers were conducted to

wards the Trossachs. The summit of the mountain can be easily reached by an active climber from this point.

At the western extremity of the loch we see the aqueduct by which water is carried to Glasgow, a distance of 34 miles. Ben Lomond is seen on the left. We now arrive at Stronachlachar Pier. A coach leaves here at once for Inversnaid, on Loch Lomond, a distance of 5 miles.

Leaving Stronachlachar, we pass on the left, Loch Arklet (2 miles), and soon afterwards, descending a steep hill by the side of Arklet water, we reach

LOCH LOMOND at Inversnaid pier. (Hotel: Blair's.) Loch Lomond, "the Queen of the Scottish Lakes," is 24 miles long, and 7 miles wide at its southern extremity, while only about a mile in breadth at the northern part; its area is 45 square miles. lt varies in depth from about 60 to 600 feet, and its surface is 22 feet above the level of the sea. Its waters are swelled by contributions from several streams, the chief of which is Endrick, from the south-east; the surplus waters are carried off by the Leven, which flows into the Clyde. The lower portion of the Loch is surrounded by a hilly, but well cultivated, and finely wooded country; and the character of the scenery is in the highest degree rich and beautiful. Around the northern portion of the Loch are piled high, wide, and picturesque masses of mountains; Ben Lomond on the east, and the Arrochar Hills on the west. The surface is dotted over with numerous islands, which are finely diversified in their general appearance, and contribute greatly to the exquisite beauty of the

scene.

At Inversnaid, close to the pier,

treat of that outlaw, an extensive cavern with a narrow opening. About 2 miles farther, is the wooded island of Eilan Vow, with the remains of a stronghold of the Macfarlanes; and 3 miles beyond, is the Loch Head Pier, where conveyances are in waiting to convey passengers to Inverarnan Hotel, which is beautifully situated).

Leaving Inversnaid for Balloch Pier, the steamer touches at TARBET (Tarbet Hotel), a favourite stopping-place for tourists. It is the landing-place for passengers destined to Inverary via Glencoe, and to Oban by Glenorchy. The last-named route is adopted by many tourists going to Óban instead of the route by steamer (Route 17). From Tarbet we

have the finest view of Ben Lomond (3192 ft.), which is nearly opposite across the loch. The ascent may be made conveniently from this place. The distance to the summit is about 4 miles, and the ascent can be made with ponies. The steamer now recrosses the loch, and stops at ROWARDENAN PIER, where there is an excellent hotel, and from which point tourists may conveniently make the ascent of Ben Lomond. Again crossing the loch, the steamer stops at Luss, where there is a good hotel. From this point to Balmaha Pier, we pass on the right Inchtavanach, Inchconnachan, Inchfad, and Inchcailloch; and on the left, Inchlonaig. From Balmaha to Balloch Pier, we pass on the right Inchmurrin, the largest island in the loch, now preserved by the Duke of Montrose as a deer-park; and on the left, Boturich Castle, and about a mile from the pier, Balloch Castle. At Balloch Pier, we take the railway for Dumbarton and Glasgow. (See Route 12.)

ROUTE 22.

EDINBURGH TO PERTH

(BY STIRLING).

75 miles; fures, first-class, 10s.; second, 7s. 6d.; third, 5s. 6d.

HIS route is the same as Route 21, as far as DUNBLANE. (Hotel: Dewar's.) After passing this station, we pass on the right Sheriffmuir, a moorland tract, where, in 1715, the Duke of Argyll, who commanded the Royalist army, fought a battle with the rebels under the Earl of Mar. Each general retired from the contest, believing himself beaten, and each subsequently claimed the victory. This incident forms the subject of a humorous song from the pen of Robert Burns.

We next reach Greenloaming (45 miles), where passengers change for Comrie, Lochearnhead, Oban, and Fortwilliam, by way of Crieff. Just after passing Greenloaming, we leave, on the left, Ardoch House. The park attached to the mansion contains the celebrated Roman Camp of Ardoch; the remains of which are clearly defined, and occupy an extent of more than 300 square yards. As we approach Perth, the Grampian Hills increase in height, and become more and more distinct to the north and west, while the horizon on our right is bounded by the Ochill Hills. Near Blackford (51 miles), we remark, on the right, Kincardine Castle. Passing Auchterarder (55) miles), celebrated as the place where the proceedings were held which led to the establishment of the Free Church of Scotland, we reach Forteviot (62 miles), near the con

fluence of the May Water and the Earn, and observe, on the left, Dupplin Castle, the residence of the Earl of Kinnoull. Beyond Forgundenny (65 miles), we enter a tunnel 14 mile long, cut through the Hill of Moncrieffe, and, on emerging, have a beautiful view of the approach to PERTH (69 miles), (Hotels: Royal George, Salutation, Star), situated on the right bank of the river Tay, with a population of about 27,000. On the north and south of the plain surrounding the town, are two tracts of meadow land of considerable extent, called respectively the North and South Inch, connected by the old bridge of ten arches, which crosses the Tay between them. Perth was considered the capital of Scotland until the reign of James I., who was assassinated here. It is supposed to have been originally built by the Romans under Agricola. The principal buildings and public monuments are:-the County Hall, built on the site of Gowrie House, where the conspirators who devised the "Gowrie Plot" assembled; the building erected in 1823, in honour of Mr. Marshall, the then Provost of Perth, and containing, on the ground floor, the Public Library, and above it, the Museum of the Literary and Antiquarian Society; the Academy; the Free-Masons' Hall, &c. The Queen inaugurated, in 1864, the statue erected in memory of the late Prince Consort. The suburbs of Perth afford many agreeable excursions. The views from Moncrieffe Hill, on the right bank of the Tay, and Kinnoull Hill, on the left bank, are particularly fine. Visits may be conveniently made to Dupplin Castle, the Bridge of Earn, Pitcaithly Wells, and the Pulace of Scone, the seat of Lord Mansfield (24 miles), built on the site of the ancient

palace of the Kings of Scotland, and where are preserved, amongst other curiosities, the bed of James VI. (James I. of England), another bed, covered with red velvet, reputed to have been embroidered by Mary, Queen of Scots, while confined in Loch Leven Castle, the Beauvais tapestry, and several valuable pictures, &c. The great gallery, about 150 ft. long, occupies the site of the hall where the sovereigns were crowned, seated on the stone brought from Dunstaffnage, and now in Westminster Abbey.

ROUTE 23.

PERTH TO INVERNESS. 144 miles. Fares, 1st class, 24s.; 2nd class, 18s.; 3rd class, 12s.

T a distance of 2 miles, near the confluence of the Almond and the Tay, we leave, on the left, the palace of Scone, and, crossing the road that leads to Dunkeld, see on the opposite side of the river Oliver Castle. Passing Stanley Junction (7 miles) we reach DUNKELD (15 miles), (Hotels: Athol, Birnam), a town of about 1500 inhabitants, situated on the left bank of the Tay, in the midst of a valley completely surrounded by mountains of considerable height, the sides of which are clothed from base to summit with woods. Conspicuous amongst them we notice, on the west, Craigievenan, and, on the north, Craigiebarns. Dunkeld contains the ruins of a Gothic cathedral, whose choir, having been restored by the liberality of the late Duke of Atholl, is now converted into a parish church. In the chancel is a stone figure of a knight in armour, supposed to be the effigy of the no