slope of the Glacier Talèfre. Hence the tourist has to scramble over moraines and rocks, some of which are rather difficult and fatiguing. This excursion affords the most imposing survey of the wildernesses of the Mont Blanc group. The Jardin is a steep rock, rising out of the midst of the glacier, and derives its name from the few flowers which bloom upon it for some weeks in summer.

GLACIER DES BOSSONS.

This glacier is scarcely an hour and a half distant from Chamouni. Its near margin is easy of access. After crossing the bridge over the Arve on the road to Geneva, a path commences at the village des Bossons, and leads to the eastward, along the side of a stream which issues from the foot of the glacier. To this succeed a few fields and a fir-wood, whence a steep ascent conducts us to the border of the glacier. Immense pyramids and obelisk - shaped blocks distinguish the upper part of the glacier. Its exterior is of a white and brilliant appearance, nearly free from earth or gravel, owing to the action upon its surface of the rays of the sun. In some places it reflects little colour; in others, especially where any clefts or fissures occur, the interior is of a beautiful blue or sea-green.

The snows of the summit of Mont Blanc are the source of this glacier, whence it descends to the border of the Arve. Although much narrower than the Glacier des Bois, it presents the same undulating appearance. In other respects it differs from the latter; its pale and blue colours being more pure and brilliant. The Glacier des Bois and Mer de Glace

resemble the congealed waves of a large river or cataract.

THE FLÉGERE.

This excursion, which requires about five hours, is one of the most admirable that can be made on horseback. The road leads up the valley, passing through the village les Près, and arrives at the foot of the mountain. A zigzag path ascends along a continual forest of larch and fir, and affords a fine view of the opposite glacier. We follow the path under the shade of the fir-trees, which continue almost to the summit of the Flegère. This mountain pasturage is covered with perpetual verdure, and watered by several springs. An iron cross, at an elevation of 6,350 ft. marks its highest point. A short distance above it is a small chalet for the reception of travellers and the sale of refreshments.

This point commands one of the most comprehensive views of the whole valley. It includes every glacier in the valley, and the general range of Mont Blanc, though it is by no means equal to the view from the Brèvent."

In front, from the source of the Arveiron to the foot of the Tacul, lies an uninterrupted view of the Mer de Glace, and of the rocks which border its banks. The summit of Mont Blanc is seen on the right. The Aiguille Verte, at an elevation of 13,432 ft. stands out plainly on the east side of the Mer de Glace; having at a short distance from it the Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille d'Argentière. The vault which terminates the glacier of Argentière, and whence a branch of the Arve issues, as the Arveiron from the Glacier des Bois, is distinctly visible. There is also a clear view of

Drance, falls in. At Sarmieur we again diverge to the right, and go on to Chavans en haut. Here there is a fine view of the valley of the Rhone. We then reach the Col de Forclaz, or Col de Trient, as it is sometimes called. Here are two small inns. Some distance down on the other side the road to Chamouni over the Col de Balme diverges to the left. We pass through a forest, and cross the mountain stream flowing down from the Glacier de Trient. Shortly afterwards we reach the village of Trient, situated in a valley surrounded by precipices, the sides of some of which are covered with pines. The way past Trient lies through the forest for a considerable distance, past the Tête Noire, which is a steep ascent covered with timber. The Hôtel de la Tête Noire is a convenient resting-place for tourists. The road formerly led by a dangerous pass called the Mauvais Pas, but it is now tunnelled through the rock, and commands an imposing view of the valley beneath the precipitous crags by which our route passes. We now enter a romantic gorge displaying a variety of most attractive scenery, and reach the Cascade Barberine, one of the finest in this district. We next pass the villages of Val Orsine and Couteraie, and approach the entrance of the valley of Bérard on the right, down which the torrent of the Eau Noire descends. We pass through the gorge of the Montets, and reach Argentière. The Glacier of Argentière is seen coming down between the Aiguilles d'Argentière, and du Tour. We next cross the Arve, and pass by the villages of Tines and Les Prés, or Praz, to Chamouni. The whole distance can be walked in eight or nine hours.

[Those who prefer the route by the Col de Balme (Hotel: Suisse), on the frontier between Valais and Savoy, will obtain a magnificent view, comprising the full range of Mont Blanc, and its glaciers descending into the valley of Chamouni, the whole of the latter being seen stretching as far as the Col de Voza. To the right are the Aiguilles Rouges, and near them the Brévent, while behind, on the right, is the Buet. Looking towards the Forclaz the view extends over the Valais, and comprehends some portions of the Oberland mountains. From the boundary stone, some little distance to the right, we obtain a view not only of Mont Blanc, but of the Aiguille de Balme, on the north, and on the north-east, some portion of the range of the Bernese Alps.

A difference of opinion exists among writers as to which of the two routes is the more interesting, Doubtless, the single view from the Col surpasses any one view upon the other route, but, that by the Tête Noire shows a succession of fine views, which render it on the whole the more interesting of the two. It is easy for tourists who are willing to prolong the journey three hours to go to the Col de Balme, and returning complete the route by the Tête Noire; but a guide who knows this route must be taken.]

ROUTE 90.

VISP TO ZERMATT.

HE distance is about 27 miles. Bridle path from Visp to St. Nicolaus, 24hours,carriage thence to Zermatt. Horse from Visp to St. Nicolaus, 10 francs, to Zermatt, 20 francs, carriage, St. Nicolaus to Zermatt, 15 francs. Time occupied usually 84 hours.

Leaving Visp we proceed for some distance along the right bank of the Visp, and crossing it reach Stalden (54 miles). (Hotel: Traube) where the Gorner-Visp joins the Saaser-Visp. We proceed along the pleasant valley of St. Nicholas, and four hours from Visp reach the village of St. Nicholas (13 miles). (Hotel: Grand Hotel). Tourists who leave Visp in the afternoon frequently spend the night here. St. Nicholas was greatly injured by the earthquake of 1855. We now proceed through a pleasantly diversified country along the right bank of the river to Randa (21 miles), situated near the point where the glacier of Bies descends from the Weisshorn. The lofty Mischabel range of peaks, being on the left of the valley, now come into view. Further on, we pass along close to the river, and through an excavation in the rock, beyond which we obtain a good view of the grand peak of the Matterhorn (Mont Cervin), and soon reach ZERMATT (27 miles). (Hotels: Mont Cervin, du Mont Rose), population 450. (The hotels are frequently much crowded in summer.) It is situated in the midst of pasture lands in a valley overlooked by the Matterhorn, and upwards

of 5,000 feet above the sea. The Matterhorn is 14,705 ft., high, and with the exception of its remarkable peak, is covered with glaciers. The hotel on the Riffelberg, about five miles from Zermatt, is a convenient place from which to ascend Monte Rosa, the Görner Grüt, and visit the Görner glacier. Zermatt is called the Chamouni of Mont Rosa, because the environs furnish so many interesting excursions.

ROUTE 91.

MARTIGNY TO THE GREAT ST. BERNARD.

ETTING out from Martigny-la-Ville, we proceed to Martigny-leBourg, and then cross to the left bank of the Drance, leaving the village of La Croix about half a mile to our right, and ascend the course of the Drance by the villages of Brocard and Valette to Bouvernier. Beyond this village, the road again crosses the river, which issues from a gorge, which grows wilder as we advance. Half an hour's drive brings us to the Galerie de la Monnoye. At its outlet are seen the ruins of a monastery, still overlaid with the soil and rubbish with which it was covered in 1818, by an irruption of the lake into the Val de Bagnes, which at this point opens upon our valley. The catastrophe caused great damage in the valley of the Drance, traces of which are visible in several places. The village of Bouvernier was saved by the rock which projects before it. The road here again crosses to the left bank of the Drance, and at St. Branchier, a dirty village, the

two branches which form the Drance unite, one having come down from St. Bernard, and the other from the Val d'Entremont.

Orsières, (Hotel: des Alpes), is a little village situated at the point where the Val de Ferret opens into the Val d'Entremont. The most picturesque section of the Pass is just above the village. We next reach Liddes, (Hotels: de l'Union, d' Angleterre), where mules may be procured for the Hospice (charge, 6 francs).

St. Pierre is a dirty village, with a church built in the eleventh century, having a Roman milestone let into the wall, near the

tower.

A pillar is shown here which was originally set up on the crest of the St. Bernard Pass to the memory of the younger Constantine. On the other side of St. Pierre, the route crosses a deep hollow, in which the Drance, pouring here out of the Orseythal, forms a pretty fall. The way formerly led through the forest, across rocks and the stumps of trees, so that when Buonaparte crossed the Great St. Bernard (in May 1800) with his army, they had a difficult march through the forest, and over the precipices of St. Pierre. They dismounted the cannon from their carriages, put them in the hollow trunks of trees and then one half the battalions dragged them up the mountain, while the other half carried the arms and accoutrements of their comrades. For some distance up from St. Pierre, the road lies through the forest, where Napoleon so nearly lost his life by slipping from his mule on the verge of the precipice. He was only saved from falling into the gulf by his guide, who caught him by the coat.

Beyond the forest, and the de

file of Cherrayre, we come to the pasturages and châlets of Proz, and in about three quarters of an hour, arrive at the Cantine of Proz. Mount Velan, at this part of the journey, appears of enormous size. The road now ascends through a gorge, called the defile of Marengo.

The traveller comes suddenly upon the Hospice of the Great St. Bernard, from the Alpine side; its stone steps almost hanging down over precipitous gulfs.

The Hospice is on the very summit of the Pass, 8,200 ft. above the level of the sea. It is a stone building, capable of sheltering 300 persons. Fully one

hundred sometimes receive succour in one day. One of the houses near the Hospice was erected as a place of refuge in case of fire in the main building. Sometimes the snow drifts encircle the walls of the Hospice to the height of 40 ft.; but it is said that the severest cold recorded here was only 29 degrees below zero. The greatest degree of heat recorded at the Hospice, has been 68 degrees. The monastery was founded about 962, according to some, by St. Bernard of Menthon; other traditions ascribe its origin to Charlemagne, or Louis the Pious. The duties of hospitality are discharged by ten or twelve Augustine monks, assisted by a number of serving-brothers called Maronniers.

The monks remain at the Hospice only for a limited term of service. In general, the brotherhood consists of young recruits, whose constitutions can bear but for a few years the constant cold and the keen air of these heights. Much of their time is occupied in the daily exercises of the chapel. A guest-chamber, or hall, is kept for travellers, apart from the re