Sardinia. It is now occupied by Cistercian monks. Lamartine has made this lake the scene of some of the most touching incidents related in his "Raphael." After skirting the shore for a considerable distance, the line branches off to the town of AIX LES BAINS, (363 miles). (Hotels: see "HOTEL APPENDIX"); population, 4,000. This agreeable watering-place is at a short distance from the lake of Bourget. It is celebrated for its hot aluminous and sulphurous springs, the temperature of which ranges from 100° to 117° Fahr. The waters, under the name of Aqua Gratianæ, were in repute with the ancients, and there still remain some ruins of a triumphal arch and of a temple of Diana, also the vestiges of some Roman baths. The scenery in the neighbourhood is picturesque, and many pleasant excursions may be made in various directions.

Leaving Aix, and skirting for a time the shore of the lake, we reach CHAMBÉRY (373 miles). (Hotels: see "HOTEL APPENDIX"); population, 20,000. This was formerly the capital of Savoy; it is beautifully situated in a rich vine-clad valley, between two ridges of hills. It is a dull and uninteresting town, but the scenery of the neighbourhood is exceedingly fine. It contains the ruins of an old castle, seven convents, a royal college, several hospitals, and a library of 16,000 volumes.

[From Chambéry an excursion may be made to the Monastery of La Grande Chartreuse, about 15 miles distant in a direct line. Excursions are more frequently made to it from GRENOBLE, distant from Chambéry by railway about 39 miles. It stands 4,268 feet above the level of the sea, in a lonely and secluded position, surrounded

by woods. It is a plain, irregular building, or collection of buildings. Visitors are not allowed to remain more than two days. The infirmary is now occupied by Sisters of Charity, and ladies staying at the convent are lodged here, while male guests sleep within the walls. Meals are taken by both sexes together in the dining-hall. The cells are very meagrely furnished. The chapel is a plain, uninteresting building. In the chapter-house are copies of the paintings, preserved in the Louvre, representing the life of St. Bruno, the founder, by Lesœur, together with portraits of the Generals of the Order, and a statue of St. Bruno in marble. The brethren are bound to preserve silence amongst themselves, and are only allowed to go beyond the precincts of the convent on Thursdays, on which day they are allowed to answer strangers who address them. The monk who attends to visitors within the convent has a dispensation from his vow of silence whilst so engaged. The chief revenues of the monks are derived from their cattle, and from the manufacture of the excellent liqueur which takes its name from this place.

The Grande Chartreuse dates from 1084. There were formerly about 200 convents belonging to the order, among them the Charterhouse in London.

GRENOBLE (Hotels: see " HOTEL APPENDIX"); population, 48,100, is a fortified town situated on the Isère, near its confluence with the Drac and Romanche. These streams water a delightful valley, surrounded by high mountains. The cathedral is not attractive externally, but contains an elegantly sculptured Gothic tabernacle, and a fine

T

re

tomb of one of its former bishops, in the choir. In the church of St. André is the monument of the Chevalier Bayard, in whose honour a bronze statue is erected in the Place St. André. There is a Palais de Justice, a Museum, Cabinet of Natural History, and a markably fine Library. The chief manufacture carried on at Grenoble is that of kid gloves, of which on an average six million pairs are produced in the year. Many pleasant excursions can be made in the neighbourhood; among others, to La Grande Chartreuse, which may be reached either by rail to Voreppe, on the Lyons Railway, and from thence by omnibus to St. Laurent du Pont, close to the monastery, or by a bridle road, which latter takes six or seven hours.]

After passing Chambéry we proceed along a beautiful valley, leaving the Castle of Bâtie on the left, and, on the right, Mont Grenier, which rises to a height of 5,700 ft. A little further on we observe, on the left bank of the river Isère, the Chateau Bayard, where the famous knight of that name was born. We presently reach MONTMELIAN (383 miles). The castle, of which a mere fragment remains, was formerly the great stronghold of Savoy. Beyond Montmélian we obtain, in fine weather, a good view of Mont Blanc. Near St. Pierre d'Albigny, a few miles distant, is the ruined Château de Miolans, standing on a lofty rock. Previous to the annexation of Savoy, this castle had, for some time, been used as a state prison. At Aiguebelle in the valley of the Maurienne, we observe the Castle of La Charbonnière, where many of the counts of Savoy were born. Originally their seat was at ST. JEAN DE MAURIZNNE (416 miles).

ST. MICHEL (424 miles). (Hotels: de la Samaritaine, de Poste).

MODANE (431 miles). Near this station is the great Alpine Tunnel. (All passengers change cars. Luggage examined.) Good buffet and table d'hote in the station. Trains through the tunnel commenced to run regularly on the 17th of October, 1871. As many travellers will still prefer to cross the Pass, a general description of it is preserved.)

About 9 miles from the latter place and near Modane is the commencement of the great Tunnel under the Alps, 74 miles in length, completed on Christmas Day, 1870. Boring operations were carried on from both the French and Italian sides by means of engines worked by condensed air. Near MODANE is the magnificent Fort l'Essillon, or Bramans, standing on a rocky height, connected with the road by a bridge called Pont du Diable. It is about to be dismantled.

The ascent of Mont Cenis commences at LANSLEBOURG (448 miles), the road being carried up the side of the mountain by zigzags.

Having gained the most elevated point of the road, we descend a little toward a plain called the Plain of Mount Cenis; and here we find the well-known Hospice originally founded by Charlemagne. Of the whole of the pass Mont Cenis itself is the least dreary part. Its hospice, its houses of refuge, each occupied by a Cantonnier, and the number of travellers, and waggons and carts loaded with merchandize, continually passing, take away all idea of desolation, notwithstanding the wildness of the scenery.

The average inclination of the road is about 1 ft. in 15. The highest point is 6,780 ft.; and the

highest peak of Mont Cenis is 11,460 ft. above the level of the sea.

Mont Cenis presents a more imposing front on the Italian side than on the French, where it slopes gradually toward the valley of the Arc; accordingly, the views on the south side are more imposing than those toward the north. After passing Rochemelon, an enormous mountain which rises an the opposite side of the valley of the Novalese, the vale of the Doria expands before us and presents one of the most beautiful views in the Alps, extending as far as Turin and the valley of the Po.

Near Susa is the dismantled fort of La Brunette, once the Key to the Pass.

SUSA (471 miles), (Hotels: de France, La Posta). From this point Turin is reached by railway in less than two hours. There is little at Susa to attract the tourist. Its chief sight is the triumphal arch, built eight years B. C., in honour of Augustus, by Cotys, a petty Sovereign of this region. It is not far from the station, a little way outside the town.

(From Modane to Turin, see Route 123).

ROUTE 63.

PARIS TO LYONS, MARSEILLES AND NICE.

To Marseilles 5361⁄2 miles; 1st class, 105 25 francs; 2nd, 78.95 francs; 3rd, 57.85 francs.

EAVING Paris from the station on the Boulevard Mazas, we pass Charenton (31 miles), celebrated for its Lunatic Asylum. At Brunoy (133 miles), there is a

ruined castle, once the residence of the Duc de la Rochefoucauld. The first stoppage is at MELUN (28 miles), the Melodunum of Cæsar. We proceed through the charming valley of the Seine and reach FONTAINEBLEAU (36 miles), already described in this work. MONTEREAU (49 miles), where there is a delay of five minutes, is celebrated for the great battle of February 18, 1814, in which the Allies were totally routed by the French under Napoleon. It is situated near the confluence of the Yonne and the Seine. We next reach SENS (70 miles). (Hotel de Paris.) Population 12,000. This was the ancient capital of the Sennones. The Cathedral, completed in 1168, was built by the same architect who, a few years afterwards, constructed the choir at Canterbury. There is a great similarity between the two structures. Passing JOIGNY (914 miles), La Roche (97 miles), (where the great Canal de Bourgogne enters the Yonne, which connects it with the Seine and the Rhone), and other unimportant stations, we reach TONNERRE (123 miles). The Hospital was originally founded in 1293, by Marguerite de Bourgogne, Queen of Sicily. It was restored about thirty years ago, but the chapel, containing the tomb of the founder, is untouched. The fosse Dionne is a large spring, issuing from the foot of a hill near the town and rushing down into the Armançon a few hundred yards from its source. It turns more than one mill in the interval.

At Tanlay (128 miles) we see the Tour de la Ligue, one of the grandest chateaux in Burgundy. In the park are the ruins of the Abbaye de Quincy, commenced in the thirteenth century; near it is the fontaine de St. Gaultier, of the

same period. Another fine château is seen at Ancy le Franc (136 miles); soon after passing which we stop at Nuits-sur- Ravières, now a small village, formerly a fortified town. Montbard (1514 miles) contains the ruined castle of the Dukes of Burgundy, and a statue of Buffon, the naturalist, whose house is still to be seen, surrounded by gardens laid out with fine terrace-walks. Leaving Montbard, we cross the canal de Bourgogne, the Brenne and the Touillon, and, see, on the left, Mont Auxois, on which Vercingetorix, the leader of the Gauls, posted himself before the battle of Alesia.

DIJON (196 miles.) (Hotel: du Jura), population 39,200. There is here a delay of some minutes. This important town, once the capital of Burgundy, is situated in a plain, at the confluence of the Ouche and Suzon, and at the base of the vine-clad hills which produce the famous Burgundy wines. Its ancient ramparts have been tastefully planted with fine trees, and converted into promenades. Of its fortifications, the castle, built by Louis XI. alone remains. In the Place-Grande, formerly PlaceRoyal, is the Palais-des-Etats, the ancient palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, now the Hótel de Ville, a portion of which is used as a museum, and contains sundry relics of the middle ages, of great interest, besides a library of 40,000 volumes. The tower, a lofty, irregular structure, is used as an observatory. The Cathedral de S. Benigne-formerly the Cistercian Abbey of S. Benigne-founded in 535, and finished in 1288, is a lofty Gothic building, with a tall wooden spire. The church of Nôtre Dame, founded in 1253, and that of Saint Michel, completed

toward the end of the fifteenth century are worth notice. The public institutions are numerous; the principal of them being the University, the Library, the School of Arts, and the Botanic Garden. Manufactures of nearly all kinds are carried on here. Dijon was the birthplace of the illustrious Bossuet. The town was taken by the Germans, Oct. 31, 1870.

BEAUNE (219 miles) is one of the chief towns of the Côte d'Or, and gives its name to a celebrated Burgundy wine. The whole district through which we pass for many miles abounds in vineyards. CHALONS-SUR-SAONE (239 miles) depends almost entirely on the wine trade. Here are also a foundry, and iron stores connected with the great iron-works of Creuzot. MACON (275 miles), (Hotel de l'Europe), is on the right bank of the Saône. It has a population of 18,400. On the river-side are handsome quays, with two commodious harbours. Mâcon contains several noteworthy churches, and the ruins of a Cathedral, which was almost entirely destroyed during the first revolution. It carries on an extensive trade in the excellent wines grown in the vicinity, known as Vin de Mâcon, as well as in corn, cattle, &c. (Railway to Geneva and Mt. Cenis branches off.) Lamartine was a native of Macon.

LYONS (319 miles.) (Hotels: see "HOTEL APPENDIX"). Population (1876) 327,000. This, the second town of France in population, and the first in industrial resources, is situated at the confluence of the Rhône with the Saône. It is celebrated for its silk manufactures. In the extent of this trade, it surpasses every other town of Europe. In variety and elegance of design, as well as in quality, the Lyons silk manu

factures are greatly superior to those of any other place.

There are about 31,000 silk looms in and about the city, besides spinning-mills, blanket manufactories, and chemical works. There are several large and important suburbs: Les Brotteaux, the handsomest part of Lyons; La Guillotière, La Croix-Rousse, &c. It has also several fine squares; the Place Bellecour, or Louis le Grand, being one of the largest in Europe, covering 15 acres. The Cathedral and church of St. Nizier, the Hótelde-ville, the Hospital, and the Palais des Beaux Arts are among the most notable institutions. The Public Library is the best provincial collection in France. It contains about 130,000 volumes, and many important manuscripts. The quays, 28 in number, are said to be the most remarkable in Europe. The principal are Quais St. Clair, St. Antoine and d'Orleans. On the right bank of the Saône are the heights of Fourrières, the base of which is washed by the river. The steep hill, crowned by the church of Notre Dame, is generally the first spot to which new comers direct their steps, on account of the magnificent view to be obtained from it, extending in one direction, to the hills of Savoy, while to the east, in clear weather, Mont Blanc is visible.

After the Revolution of 1789, the citizens of Lyons, who had at first supported the movement, became alarmed at the excesses committed by the Convention, and withdrew their allegiance. An army of 60,000 men was, in consequence, sent against them, and, after a disastrous siege, the city was taken, and almost totally destroyed. It was rebuilt under Napoleon I., and though it has since frequently suffered from inundations and from the riots of

workmen, it is now in a highly prosperous condition.

Among the numerous antiquities in the Palais des Beaux Arts are the Bronze Tables containing the speech made by Claudius, when Censor, in the Senate (A.D. 48), on moving that the communities of Gallia Comata should be admitted to the privileges of Roman citizenship. They are beautifully cut, and the letters are as sharp and as legible as if they had only just been engraved. They were discovered in 1528, on the heights of St. Sebastian. There are several theatres: Le Grand Théâtre, the principal one, standing at the rear of the Hótel-de-Ville.

Leaving Lyons by the Perrache Terminus, we cross the Rhône, and pass, on the left, the branchlines to Geneva and Grenoble. Beyond Chasse (331 miles) we see, at some distance on the right, the massive form of Mont-Pilat, and some miles further we go through a tunnel cut through part of Mont-Salomon. Another tunnel passes under a considerable portion of the town of VIENNE (338 miles) (Hotels: Ombry, du Louvre); population, 25,000. This very ancient town, which was a place of consequence before Lyons was built, stands on the left bank of the Rhône, in a valley enclosed by mountains. It contains numerous remains of Roman structures, the most striking of which is the Temple of Augustus and Livia, somewhat resembling the Maison Carrée at Nîmes. The Museum contains several fine specimens of sculpture, terra cotta, &c., which have from time to time been discovered in and about the town. The vestiges of a Roman theatre are to be seen on the side of Mount Pipet, and a little below it an obelisk of the same period. The Cathedral of