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direct descendants of the family which then possessed it. the year 1870 Parliamenpowers were obtained for lengthening, widening and deepening the canal to accommodate steamers and other vessels of the largest class. Severn, above Sharpness Point, is only navigable, for any practical purpose, by barges. As Gloucester is the centre of a great railway and water conveyance system it has a large and increasing trade with the inland towns with which it is so connected.

Within easy reach of Gloucester, by rail, are CHELTENHAM and TEWKESBURY, one being 10 and the other 12 miles distant; the first well known for its mineral waters and beautiful promenades and neighbourhood; and the other for its grand old Norman abbeychurch, and store of ancient monuments. Founded by two great Saxon nobles, richly endowed by the great Norman families of Fitz-Hamon and De Clare, whose chief burial-place it became, it was, like Gloucester, one of the few abbeys whose chief wore the mitre, and had a seat in parliament as a peer. The Beauchamp or Warwick sepulchral chapel is a very beautiful piece of architecture, and the ancient stained glass clerestory windows contain some curious and, doubtless, authentic illustrations of baronial costume and armour.

Twenty miles north-west of Gloucester is GREAT MALVERN (Hotels: See" HOTEL APPENDIX"), population 5,700. A fashionable watering-place,consisting of Great and Little Malvern, lying on the slope of the Malvern Hills. There are several fashionable water-cure establishments here. The springs are tepid and sulphurated, and are useful in diseases of the skin.

There is a fine Gothic church and remains of a priory. The neighbourhood abounds in fine excursions and the view from Malvern Hills is very fine. Malvern is 128 miles from London by the Great Western line, and is reached in five hours; fares, 1st class, 23s. 3d.; 2nd, 16s. 6d.

Half-an-hour by rail from Malvern is WORCESTER (Hotels: See "HOTEL APPENDIX"), population 39,000. An old city, now noted for its manufactories of gloves and boots and shoes. It has broad clean streets and several buildings of note. The CATHEDRAL, the oldest parts of which date from the 13th century, is early English. It is in the form of a double cross and is 385 feet long. Its handsome tower, lately restored, is 170 feet high. It has some fine windows and carvings. The old cloisters, recently restored, are very beautiful. Several of the churches are well worth visiting, as are the Guildhall and Corn Exchange. The old Palace contains some interesting portraits and commands a fine view of the Malvern and Welsh hills. Distance from London by Great Western line, 120 miles; fares, 1st class, 21s.; 2nd, 15s.

ROUTE 40.

LONDON TO SALISBURY, EXETER, ILFRACOMBE, PLYMOUTH, AND LAND'S-END.

The route here described is that by the London and South Western Railway as far as EXETER, beyond that point the description applies to the Great Western Railway Company, the only Company owning a line beyond Plymouth. Travellers destined to Exeter, Torquay, Plymouth, and points beyond, would find it better to take the Great Western Railway, Paddington Station, whose trains run to Exeter in the same time and at the same price as those of the other line, and who possess the only line to Torquay, Falmouth, and points beyond.

ROM London to Basingstoke (47 miles) see Route 33, reversing the order of the places mentioned. Leaving Basingstoke, we pass several pretty villages and country houses not deserving particular mention, and reach Whitchurch (594 miles), a

town with a population estimated at 1,962. Here is a manufactory of paper for Bank of England notes. We pass, on the right, Hurstbourne Park, the residence of the Earl of Portsmouth, and next arrive at Andover (664 miles), a town of about 5,200 inhabitants. It is a place of considerable antiquity, and, in the neighbourhood, about 2 miles on the left, are the remains of several Roman encampments. Soon after leaving Andover we reach SALISBURY (834 miles), (Hotels: See " HOTEL APPENDIX"), population, 12,278. It sprung into existence on the founding of a cathedral here in 1215, and the consequent transfer of the episcopal see from Old Sarum. Seen from any direction, the eye is immediately caught by the graceful spire of its CATHEDRAL, which is the loftiest in the United Kingdom, being 406 ft., and higher than the cross upon the dome of St. Paul's. It is the pride of the place and county, and is an admirable specimen of early English architecture. A legend, common to many large buildings, is current here:

"As many days as in one year there be, So many windows in this church you

see;

As many marble pillars here appear As there are hours throughout the fleeting year;

As many gates as moons one here does view;

Strange tale to tell! yet not more strange than true."

The number of pillars will be accounted for, to those who know the style in which it is built, by the clusters of graceful shafts of small size, usually of Purbeck marble, grouped around the more substantial columns which are the real supports of the edifice. The cathedral is in the form of a Greek cross, and the tower, which sup

ports the spire, rises from the intersection of the choir and nave by the principal transepts. It contains many monuments of bishops and of the old earls of Salisbury. The monument of Bishop Roger is supposed to be one of the oldest existing of its kind. It has been seriously injured upon two occasions by lightning. The cloisters are very large and exceedingly fine. There are many old gable-ended houses, which give a mediæval appearance to those parts of the town where they are found. Among the modern improvements of Salisbury is the institution recently founded and endowed by Mr. William Blackmore, of London, a native of this place, which is called the Blackmore Museum, and is of especial interest to Americans. Mr. Blackmore, being in America during the late civil war, hearing that Messrs. E. G. Squier and Dr. Davis, in order to prevent the dispersion of their collections of American antiquities (the most extensive ever made), had offered them to the Historical Society of New York, and that the price which they demanded was considered too high, purchased them at the price asked, and placed them in the handsome building which he has erected to receive them. To these he has added a great number of primæval antiquities from other sources, and the whole collection is exceedingly instructive to the student of pre-historic times.

Massinger the dramatist, and Dodsworth the antiquary, were natives of Salisbury.

The wonderful structure called by the Saxons STONEHENGE, "the hanging stones," of unknown purpose and antiquity, is on Salisbury plain, about 9 miles north of the city; upon the plain are also

many ancient burial-places or tumuli of various forms.

Old Sarum is about 1 miles from Salisbury, on the Marlborough road. It consists simply of an oval entrenchment, with a smaller one, corresponding in outline, within it; the area comprised within the larger is about 27/

acres.

From very early times until the passing of the Reform Bill in 1832, this place, without houses or inhabitants, returned two members to Parliament, while some of the great centres of industry and population, such as Birmingham and Manchester, sent none. it was the most flagrant example of a "rotten borough."

WILTON (86 miles) is celebrated for its carpet manufacture. In the neighbourhood is Wilion House, the seat of the Earl of Pembroke, where Sir PhilipSidney composed his "Arcadia." A few miles farther, on the right, is Wardour Castle, the residence of Lord Arundel of Wardour. During the civil war a force of 25 men held the fortress against 1300 of the Roundheads. Semley (101 miles) is the station for Shaftesbury, which formerly contained a nunnery, reputed one of the richest in the kingdom. Sherborne (1181 miles), population, in

1861, 5523. The church was a cathedral until the see was changed to Old Sarum, in the year 1075. Near the town is the Castle, the seat of Lord Digby, formerly the property of Sir Walter Raleigh. YEOVIL (123 miles) is celebrated for its manufacture of gloves. CREWKERNE (128 miles) is a small manufacturing town, situated in a pleasant valley. It has a handsome Gothic church, the interior of which is profusely decorated with carved wood-work. A few miles beyond Chard (1311⁄2 miles)

we have a beautiful view-on the left, extending to the English Channel; and, on the right, the prospect reaches as far as the Bristol Channel. HONITON (154 miles), is celebrated for its lace manufacture, which has, however, considerably declined of late years. We next arrive at EXETER (171) miles), (Hotels: Clarence, New London), the county town of Devon, a city and bishop's see; having access to the coast by means of a canal 5 miles long, commenced in the reign of Elizabeth, but subsequently lengthened and deepened, so as to permit vessels of considerable size to come up to the city. It has no special manufacture. Exeter is very picturesquely situated on the banks of the Exe, and has been a place of importance from early British times. It has still, in its buildings, many indications of its antiquity. Its principal feature is its CATHEDRAL, built upon the site of an older one which was destroyed by King Stephen. Commenced in 1280, the choir was finished in 1318, and the nave in 1327. It consists of a nave, with two side aisles, two short transepts, under the two low Norman towers, a choir, ten oratories or chapels, and the Chapter House. The whole building, from east to west, is 408 feet in length. The western front is ornamented with niches and elegantly carved effigies of saints and kings, and its façade is one of the most striking in the kingdom. The Chapterhouse is a beautiful building, with a handsome oak ceiling, and contains the Cathedral library. Amongst other ancient documents preserved here is the original Exon Domesday Book, and the charter of King Stephen. In the north tower is the "Peter Bell," weighing 12,500 lbs., and a clock of

curious and antique construction; in the south tower is a peal of 11 bells, the power of which may be judged from the fact that the tenor weighs 2,000 lbs. The interior is very fine; and the effect of the Early English clustered columns of the nave, with their pointed arches supporting the stone roof, is very impressive. The screen, which separates the nave from the choir, is of exquisite workmanship and universally admired.

The tourist will observe the remains of the Castle of Rougemont, said to have been built by William the Conqueror upon the site of an older fortress. Many Roman antiquities have been discovered here. There are several public buildings, and a Park, named after the present Queen.

[From Exeter the tourist may conveniently reach ILFRACOMBE by railway. Steamers run frequently from Bristol, Cardiff, and Swansea to Ilfracombe. Here is the ILFRACOMBE HOTEL, an elegant modern establishment on the shore, in the midst of splendid scenery. Its comfort and moderate charges render it a most desirable stopping place. This place may be reached from London by the London and South Western railway direct, or by the Great Western, vid Barnstaple.

After leaving Exeter, we see, on the left, beyond Exminster (175 miles), Powderham Castle, the seat of the Earl of Devon, surrounded by a park of 10 miles in circumference. Here, it is said, William III. passed a night while on his way to London, after the revolution of 1688.

DAWLISH (183 miles), (Hotels: London, York) is one of the most delightful watering-places in England. The scenery inland, and the views along the coast,are alike in the highest degree attractive. The next station is TEIGNMOUTH

(186) miles), (Hotels: Royal, Queen's, Devon Arms), population 6,022. This is also a much frequented watering-place, and a town of great antiquity. At NEWTON JUNCTION (1914 miles) there is a branch to TORQUAY, 6 miles distant, a noted place of resort (Hotels: See "HOTEL APPENDIX"), population 21,750. It is sometimes called, from its mild temperature, the Montpellier of England. The situation is very

fine and much has been done to make it an attractive winter residence. The scenery is fine and the vicinity abounds in charming excursions. It has a theatre, concert rooms, libraries, and news rooms, and a museum. The church of St. John is a magnificent edifice. As a winter residence for invalids it has been ranked by eminent authorities with the Undercliff and Hastings. TOTNESS (2004 miles) is a town of about 4,000 inhabitants, on the river Dart. We see the ruins of its ancient walls and castle.

At a

distance of two miles, on the left, are the fine remains of Berry Pomeroy Castle, the property of the Duke of Somerset.

PLYMOUTH (2244 miles), (Hotels: See " HOTEL APPENDIX"), population 70,091. Plymouth, Stonehouse, and Devonport, with their suburbs, may be treated as one town, being as intimately united as London, Westminster, Southwark, and Lambeth; although, since the Reform Bill, Devonport and Stonehouse, exceeding Plymouth in population, have been incorporated, and, like it, return two members to Parliament. Plymouth is the easternmost of the three, at the head of the Sound, and is the commercial port, while the principal Government establishments are situated in Devonport. The harbour com

prehends the sound and its various arms. The estuary of the Tamar, called Hamoaze, forms a harbour 15 fathoms deep at low tide, and four miles long, for war ships; and the estuary of the Plym, chiefly used by merchant ships, transports, &c., is another, called Catwater, capable of accommodating an immense number of vessels. Stretching across the entrance of the sound is a magnificent Breakwater, a mile in length, commenced in 1812; it has cost an enormous sum, but the protection to the harbour which it affords is invaluable. In the middle of the Sound is Drake's or Nicholas Island, strongly fortified. In the town is the citadel, and about it are imposing fortifications which for years have been undergoing extension upon a very large scale. In or near Stonehouse are the Royal Naval Hospital, the Royal Military Hospital, the Marine Barracks, and the magnificent Victualling Yard, on Cremill Point. The nucleus of Devonport is the Dockyard, with all its accessories as at Portsmouth; first established by William III. At Mount Wise are the residences of the Lieutenant-Governor and the Port-Admiral. There are many public buildings worthy of notice, but we must direct attention to some of the more attractive localities in the neighbourhood, first of which is Mount Batten, a promontory which narrows the entrance of the Catwater from the Sound, from which a very extensive prospect is obtained; MoUNT EDGECOMBE (the residence of the Earl who bears that title), whose natural beauties are too far-famed to require more than passing mention; the romantic scenery of Ivybridge, already passed on the road, therefore readily accessible by railway; and the great undulating