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As there is good Reason to prefume, from the late Menaces of the Turks, that the Maltese will be attacked by them, our Readers, on this Occafion, will, it is hoped, be pleased to fee here an accurate MAP and PLAN of the Island and Fortifications of MALTA, illuftrated with a Defcription from the bejt Authorities.-See, in our Magazines for March and Auguft, 1760, two whole Sheet Maps, finely coloured, of all the Countries bordering on the Eastern and Western Parts of the Mediterranean Sea.

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though much nearer to the coast of Sicily, is yet, the beft geographers, reckoned as a part of Afric. It was known to the ancients by the name of Melita, of which that of Malta is only a corruption; and is famed for the hofpitable reception which its inhabitants, though ftyled Barbarians by St. Luke, are recorded to have given to the great Apostle St. Paul, and to the rest of the passengers that were shipwrecked upon its coast (Acts xxviii. & feq.)

If we may depend upon the tradition that goes current among them, it was anciently poffeffed by an African Prince, named Bat

tus.

The Carthaginians became afterwards masters of it, till they were driven out by the Romans, under whofe government it was erected into a prefectfhip, or, as the fame facred hiftorian ftyles it, prætorship, which was nevertheless fubject to that of Sicily. Towards the decline of the Empire, that is, about the ninth century, the Mahometans seized upon it, and held it till the year 1090, when Roger, Count of Sicily, took it from them; from which time it became fubject to the Princes of that island, and followed the fate of it, till the reign of the Emperor Charles V, who gave it by a perpetual grant, confirmed by the Pope, unto the fugitive Knights of Rhodes, who had been driven from their own city and ifland by the Turks. They took poffeffion of it about the year 1530, together with that of Gozo, which is a fmall one, a few leagues from it, and granted to them likewife by the fame Monarch, in 1522; and have, with great valour and bravery, kept poffeffion of them, against the ftrenuous and frequent efforts of the Turks, with whom they have been ever at war. It is from the greater of thefe islands that they are styled Knights of Malta; for before that time they were called Knights of St. John of Jerufalem, and afterwards Knights of Rhodes. Malta is fituated between the coast of Tripoli and thofe of Sicily, about 18 leagues fouth from the latter, and so north from the former, under the 36th degree of north latitude, and between the 14th and 15th of aft longitude. It is of an almost oval Form; about 15 miles, according to fome, in ngth, 8 in breadth, and 40 in circumfeNUMB, CXCVI, VOL. XXVIII,

length, 12 in breadth, and 60 in compaís. The whole island, from the fhallownels of its foil, being in few places above two feet depth of earth; and, from the lowness of its fituation, not much elevated above the level of the water, and, having no confiderable hill in it; feems to have been, in the most ancient times, nothing else but a great rock, wholly overwhelmed and covered with the fea; efpecially if we confider the multitude of fea-fhells of all forts, fharks teeth, vertebres of thornbacks, and other fish-bones petrified, found all over the island, even in the highest parts, and most remote from the fhore: For, that these were formed by fome plaftic power in the ftone quarries, being nothing elfe but the effects and productions of Nature sporting herself, in imitation of the parts and fhells of these animals, we can hardly be induced to believe; because Nature (which is indeed nothing else but the ordinary power of God) is not fo wanton and toyish, as to form fuch elegant figures, without further end and defign than her own pastime and diverfion. Hence it is very likely, that, the fea being fhallow above this rock for fome ages before, when it came to be uncovered, great beds of shellfish harboured and bred in fo convenient a place, and, the water leaving them, their fhells remained and petrified. Yet it is hard to imagine, how the carcafes of fo many sharks should come to be lodged here, as appears from the multitude of teeth, that have been for fo many years paft, and are still daily digged up, unless it be from the heads of fuch fharks as were caught and eaten by the fishermen, who, it is probable, after the discovery of this rock, frequented here, and made it a station for fishing, before it came to be thoroughly and fully inhabited.

rence; or, according to others, about 26 in

To this difficulty Steno returns answer in these particulars: 1. That fuch fharks, or fea-dogs, have each of them 60 teeth and more, and that all the time they live they breed new teeth. 2. That the fea, agitated by the winds, is wont to protrude these bodies it meets with towards fome one place, and there heap them together. 3. That fharks fwim in great fhoals, and, confequently, that the teeth of many of them may have been left in one place. 4. That in

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the Malta earth, befides these fharks teeth, are found alto fundry cockle-fhells; fo that, if the number of teeth fhould incline a man to afcribe their production to the earth, on the other hand, the make of the fame teeth, and the abundance of them in every animal, and the earth like the bottom of the fea, and other marine bodies found in the fame place, do favour the contrary opinion..

The foil, notwithstanding its rockinefs and fhallowness, has been celebrated by the ancients for fertility; but undefervedly, if we understand it of corn, for there is not / much wheat sown here. Barley is the chief crop, of which the country people make their bread; yet, as they have not near enough of that to ferve the ordinary uses of the inhabitants, they are forced to have moft of their bread-corn from Sicily. The main commodities which the island yields, wherewith the inhabitants drive a good trade, and inrich themselves, are: 1. Cumin-feed, which they call cumino agro, or fharp cumin; of which are gathered about 3000 cantares yearly, one cantare being equal to 116 lb. English. 2. Anife feed, which they call fweet cumin; of which are gathered, and tranfmitted into foreign parts, 1000 cantares yearly. Thefe feeds are fold at 7, 8, or 9 crowns the cantare.. 3. Cottonwool, of which they fend abroad, yearly, 14,000 cantares in the hufk. To thefe commodities may be added indigo, in a pretty confiderable quantity, which agrees with the foil, and thrives there very well; together with a plenty of good figs, melons, and other fruits. Malta hath been famous of old for a breed of little dogs, called Catuli Melitai, the race whereof is quite extinct, and now their cats are as much eltcemed. The rofes of Malta contend for fweetnefs with thofe of Peftum, and the honey with that of Hybla or Hymettus; fo that fome fuppofe this ifland had its name Melita from M, fignifying honey.' Mr. Ray, in his Travels, mentions a fort of excrefcence, or mofs, or fcurf, which the rocks about St. Maria el Aalia, and other places on the north fide of the island, naturally put forth, called by the country people vercella; which they scrape off with an iron inftrument, and, having washed it with a certain liquor, and mingled it with other ingredients [he tells us not what that liquor or thafe ingredients are] they expofe it to the fun, and use it to dye wool of a carnation colour. This kind of mofs, called in Wales kenkerig, and in England cork, or arcel, is gathered and used for the fame purpofe in Wales, and in the North of England.

The air of Malta is clear and healthful, and the people long-lived. Not much rain

falls in it, yet fufficient to fupply water to feed their fprings, of which there are feveral in the high grounds, or small hills about the middle of the island. It appears, that these fprings proceed from rain-water only, becaufe found at the foot of little hills, confisting of a certain porous ftone, which the Maltese call Giorgiolena, or a chalky earth, which easily imbibes the rain: And indeed, that all fprings and running waters owe their rife and continuance to rain, feems to be more than probable.

The haven of Malta is very commodious and secure, and is divided into two by a little promontory or neck of land, fome 1500 canes long, and 380 broad; upon which the new city is built. Of thefe two, that on the weft fide of the city is called fimply Marfa, or the Haven; and is in length 180 canes or poles, or palms; the cane Roman measure; and is fubdivided into other creeks or finufes. That on the east fide, called Marfa Mofcetto, is as large as the other, in a little ifland, within which is the Lazaretto; near it, fhips that come from infected places keep their quarantine. The new city, called Valetta, from the Great Mafter John la Valetta, who laid the first ftone of it, March 28, 1566, is divided into 20 ftreets, eight in length and 12 in breadth; all straight, though not paved, having no occafion for being fo, the town being built upon a folid rock. They want no uniformity but being level, which the place as uneven, up-hill and down-hill, will not admit. The houses are all ftone, flat-roofed, and covered with plaifter, which is here fufficient, as but little rain falls; and, though not high, they are neat and pleafant. Upon the roofs of their houfes, in fummer-time, the people fet their beds, as at Aleppo, and fleep in the open air. The number of the inhabitants of all ages, throughout the ifland, according to a furvey taken in 1662, under the mastership of Antonio de Paulo, amounted

to

51,750, exclufive of thofe of the Order, the Clergy, and the Familiars, or Officers of the Inquifition: Before that, in 1632, the number of the inhabitants of the city was computed at 10,744, and the number of houfes 1891; all which fums are fince those times much increased. Over the gate of the city, leading to the land, called Porta Reale, there is an infcription giving an account of the firft founding and building of it. It is fortified with impregnable walls and bulwarks, especially towards the land, whereone would think there are too many; and yet they are fill adding more. All the walls and bulwarks are mined or vaulted underneath, that fo, in cafe the befiegers. fhould get upon them, they might be blown

up

up and rendered ufelefs. The charge of all thefe walls, caftles, and fortifications, would be more than they could well fupport, had they not ftone at hand, and flaves to work. This city is well ferved with provifions, the market, every morning, being plentifully furnished with bread, flesh, fish, poultry, fruits, herbs, &c. of the beft in their feveral kinds, and to be bought at eafy

rates.

The most confiderable buildings in the city are, 1. The church of St. John the Baptift, patron of the Order; wherein are many chapels and altar-pieces, richly gilt and adorned. Here lie buried the Grand Mafters who died fince the Order was tranflated to this island, in a vault under ground, feveral of them having, in the church, monuments with infcriptions. 2. The Caftle of St. Elmo, which stood before the city was built on the utmost point of the promontory, a strong place but not large. The afcent to the top is without any steps or ftairs, as in the Tower of St. Mark at Venice.

Conftant watch and ward are kept on the top of this castle. When they defcry any veffel coming towards the island, they fet up a flag fuitable to the bigness of the veffel; if two veffels, two; if three, three; and fo on, according to their number; fignifying alfo, by the place where they set thefe flags, from what quarter, eaft, weft, north, or fouth, fuch veffel or veffels come; fo that the city is presently advised what vessels, and how many, are near the port. In this castle are imprifoned fuch Knights as have committed any misdemeanor, and held in reftraint, a longer or leffer time, or further proceeded against, according to the degree of their fault. 3. Before this caftle are the granaries, where the provifions of corn for the city are kept. These are nothing but caves hewn out of the rock, in the form of a cupola, or ordinary bee-hive, having each a narrow mouth above. They are tantly provided with corn enough beforehand, to ferve the whole city for a year. They have alfo magazines or ftores of wines, oil, and all other neceffaries. 4. The Alberghs, or halls, of the eight feveral nations (Lingue they call them) of the Order. The nations are French, Italian, German, Engdish, Provencal, Auvergnois, Castilian, and Arragonian.

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Thefe Alberghs are most of them fair buildings like colleges, and in each of them is a public hall, wherein the Knights of each nation dine and fup, as many as please; the others have their parts or demenfum fent to their lodgings, or difpofe otherwise of it, as they fee meet. The

Seignior of each nation is Superior of the Albergh, Grand Prior of his nation, of the Great Cros (Gran Croce they term it) and one of the Privy-council to the Great Mafter. Thefe are diftinguifhed from the reft, by a great white crois upon their breafts made of filk, fewn into their garments. Here is an Albergh for the English nation, or rather a piece of ground inclosed, with the foundation of an Albergh, the walls being fcarcely reared up. This ground, we are told, fome of the citizens would have bought and built upon, but the Grand Mafter and Council refufed to fell it; not depairing, it feems, that one day our nation may be reduced again to the obedience of the Church of Rome.

5. The Armory (Sala di arma) within the palace of the Great Mafter, confifting of two rooms; the one, which they call the Hall, the faireft and large room that is any-where employed for fuch an use; the other much lefs. In both together are kept arms for 40,000 men, all intire, clean, bright, and fit for ufe; and, among them, the arms of fuch Great Mafters as have been wounded in any action; and fome of those little Drakes, that may be charged behind a leather gun; and other curiofities.

6. The Hofpital (Infirmaria) a fair and elegant building. The fick perfons are ferved by the Knights, and a certain number of the Knights are appointed to carry them their meat daily with cap in hand. The meat is all brought into the middle of a great room, where many of the fick lie. Then one of the Knights, who acts as Steward, reads the names of the sick, one by one, out of the Phyfician's bill, wherein is prefcribed each fick perfon's diet. As he reads a name, the Cook takes his part, and, dishing it up, delivers it to a Knight, who carries it to his bed-fide, where ftands a tool covered with a napkin, having bread and falt upon it. This duty their very name intimates to belong to them, that is, Servants of the Hofpital, according to their primitive inftitution. Poor travellers find alfo entertainment here, till they can get paffage to the place they are bound to; and then they are furnished with provifion, and their charges are borne through their voyage. If any of the Order falls fick, he is not to stay in a private houfe, but prefently to repair to a Hall here hung with tapetry; where he is moft carefully tended, and ferved in plate, one or two Knights being appointed to be always by him.

7. The palace of the Great Matter, where he hath feveral apartments for winter and fummer. This palace looks into a large fquare, in the middle of which is a charmi

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ing fountain, which throws up water in great quantities and very high, and fupplies the whole town. Adjoining the palace is a stable of good horses; in which, befides coach and ordinary faddle-horfes, are kept 40 or 50 great horfes. It is a thing worth noting in this ifland, where there is a great fcarcity of horses, that Knights and perfons of Quality ride upon no better than affes: Here alfo, in a particular manner, may be obferved the cuftom of flitting up the noftrils of affes, becaufe, being naturally ftreight or small, they fuffice not to admit air enough to ferve them, when they travel or labour hard in these hot countries; for, the hotter the country is, the more air is neceffary for respiration and refreshment of the body; there being lefs of that menftruum which ferves to nourish or continue fire, and confequently the vital heat of animals (which hath great likeness thereto) in hot air than in cold; whence we fee, that fire burns furiously in cold weather, and but faintly in hot.

About 12 miles from the city, the Great Mafter has another palace, called Bofchetto, in form of a caftle: From the top there is a good profpect of the ifland; the halls are adorned with excellent paintings, and it has a great number of gardens and orchards, well furnished with all forts of fruits and flowers, good water-works, and a grove of trees ftocked with game for his diversion : Indeed, this palace wants nothing for conveniency or delight; it is fituated upon a little hill, and the gardens lie under it, in a hol low or bottom almost compaffed about with rocks.

8. The Slaves prifon, a fair fquare building, where all the flaves in the city lodge every night, fo long as the gallies are abroad in Corfo. At the ringing of the Ave-Mary bell, which is juft at fun-fet, they are to repair thither. When the gallies are at home, thofe that belong to private perfons are permitted to lodge in their matters houfes. There are other buildings of note in this city, but those mentioned are the principal.

Bafides this new city, there are three confiderable towns, diftant from it only by the breadth of the haven: 1. The Ifola, or town of Senglea, with the fort of St. Michael, feated in a peninfula, made by two creeks running out of the principal haven. For the ftout refiftance it made against the Turks, in 1565, it obtained the name of Citta Invitta. 2. The Burgo del Caftello à Mare, built likewife on a little Lingua, or neck of land between two creeks of the fame haven, on the utmoft cape whereof ftands the Caftle of St. Angelo, divided, for greater

ftrength, from the town by a ditch of water cut across the Lingua: For its valour and fidelity, in holding out fo refolutely againft the Ottoman army, in 1565, it is defervedly honoured with the title of Citta Vittoriofa. Between these two burghs is a fecure harbour, where the gallies and moft of the other veffels of the city lie, which in time of danger is fhut up with a great iron-chain. 3. Birmula, rather a suburb of Senglea than a diftinct town.

The old city, now Citta Notabile, was anciently called Melita, after the name of the island. It was formerly much greater, and incomparably more populous. At prefent it is finall, the new city, as being more conveniently fituated, having drawn away the greater number of its inhabitants; it is, however, ftill of confequence, being well fortified.

About five miles diftant from Malta, weftward, lies the island Gozo, called by the ancients Gaulos, 12 miles long, 6 broad, and about 30 in circuit. The foil, like that of Sicily, is very deep, and fruitful of wheat and other grain. This ifland is mountain. ous, yet all cultivated, and furnished with ftore of fresh fprings. It was very populous before the Turkish armada most inhumanly wafted it, in 1565, carrying away upwards of 6000 prifoners. In the ftreight between Malta and Gozo lies a little ifland, called Comino, about 5 miles in compass, and well cultivated; for the defence of which the Great Master Wignacourt caused a fort to be built, oppofite to that on the other fide the ftreight in Gozo, to fecure the ftreight, and hinder any vessels paffing between the iflands without leave.

As to matters of antiquity or curiofity in the island of Malta, it will not be amifs to obferve, that in the Old city there is, as the inhabitants call it, the Pillar of St. Paul; where when he ftood preaching, as they fondly believe, his voice was heard diftinctly all over the island; as also the Grot of St. Paul, out of which is taken that white earth called Terra di S. Paolo, and by fome Terra Sigillata Melitenfis, which they feal and fell to ftrangers, attributing thereto great virtues against all poison and infections. This cavern, though great quantities of earth are continually taken out of it, retains ftill, according to their tradition, the fame dimenfions, becoming no greater than it was at firft. That St. Paul fuffered fhipwreck on the coaft of this island, and wintered here, and not on that other Melita, in the Adriatic fea, on the coaft of Dalmatia, now called Meleda, feems fufficiently proved by Cluyerius, Abela, and others; but that, upon occafion of a viper fastened on his

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